Surfing shouldn’t be high on your ‘list to do’ today. It’s probably tucked in there under ‘wash the car’ or ‘alphabetically sort your cd collection’. Pouring rain at daybreak, howling winds and 3 foot mush-slush. Not pretty. Usually storms at this time of year come from the south, but this one is from the NE bringing a NE swell with it. From today onwards it progressively gets larger to 7-8 foot on the weekend…shame the wind is flanking and should butcher any signs of joy.
Sit tight, focus on work or finding work….here is some fresh, wet images from the glorious Mentawais (gotta love that joint – love it even more on days like theze)::uge
PS – Bobby Martinez just won ‘Chopes over Taj! That’s the second time he’s taken that tour stop. I was there when he won it in 2006 and he’s amazing at ‘Chopes…surfing his frontside, he gets hell deep.
is it me or does this underwater picture of the brazillian surfer (11534) look like the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio?! Maybe he was surfing on water all along..