We all had big expectations for the morning surf conditions. At 5:30 am the beach was littered with frothers, eagerly hunting a solo peak. Unfortunately, the 6:39 am high tide swallowed the swell increase, producing fat burger waves that provided little enjoyment. Land of the cutback!
I know there was some colour at 5:30 am, I was riding down the hill with the medium format beast to capture it before it turned down dull, back to greys (with a bit of gold)
Tonight, we launch our highly anticipated fourth book, 25 Laps Around The Sun. Tomorrow, the books will be available to you all. I’m super proud. It’s amazing.
:: uge
