With a 12-second mid-long period south swell in town, it’s looking very straight down the beach. Virtually unsurfable.
It’s such a shame. It’s big, but we have nothing for it to break on.
Don’t turn your back on the ocean today. You’ll go in for a dip thinking she’s flat as, but then a 4-6 monster will creep up on you when you’re not looking. It’s always entertaining watching swimmers get taken out.
It’s going southerly and onshore tomorrow. Ho-hum.
:: uge
