Geez, it came up big this morning. I blinked, and it was 4-6 foot solid, long interval, south swell bombs. That size is useless to us as our tempermental sand banks can’t handle anything above 2-3 foot.
Jordi got the wave of the day and one of the only waves that didn’t completely close out from out the back. Inside, the groms feasted on smaller reforms, slapping them on the shorey sand.
This new swell is flanked by annoying southerlies, making junk in the ocean. It will be super fun tomorrow if it drops considerably tonight and the winds go offshore. At this stage, it’s likely to be still too big and remain straight. I’ll keep an eye on it.
You know well, if I stray from the beach and shoot buildings, there’s not much happening…
:: uge
