Selamat Pagi! Indonesia is good to surf as it’s near the equator, and the winds are generally light whilst attracting raw southern swells from The Roaring Forties in the Indian Ocean. The islands are a myriad of nooks and crannies for these consistent swells to break on, creating hundreds of surf breaks each with their own individual personalities.
30 charter boats operate in the Mentawai region, but now, in some areas, land camps have been popping up steadily. It’s a hard place to get to with inconvenient flight schedules and a lack of resources. For example, it took us two days of travel to finally get our first waves – that’s two flights and a 17-hour overnight boat ride. For me, always worth it.
The waves here are not for everyone, as they typically break on very sharp, shallow reefs – in a fast and hollow way. You couldn’t pick up a surf mag without seeing a wave from this region. Surf companies have been coming here for decades.
The water is hot and, say, 28-30 degrees. Wearing any wetsuit will cook you, and the sunshine is brutal, scorching any exposed skin.
The swell has gone small, and all the boats congregate at the magnets, awaiting the next bump in ocean energy. Obviously, I’ve found a satellite to hook into for broadcast!
Avagoodone…don’t forget our gallery is open daily, 10am to 6pm at 64 Hall St. Bondi Beach
:: uge
