There is a big swell in town. At first, I just thought it was only a 6-8 foot day, but some sets were enormous. I’m not quite sure how big, as not many surfers out to gauge the heights – but the odd 10 foot plus bomb I think.
It was quite an action-packed morning; big swells get everyone a little excited:
I saw a surfer wash into the deadly “Twins” at Tamarama (those big rocks/cave where others have passed away). With the help of the lifeguards and a bit of luck with a lull in between big sets – the surfer made it out relatively unscathed. Buy a Lotto ticket buddy. When in doubt – don’t go out!
I also witness an assembly of 20 riot police (balaclavas and all) at the end of my street in Bondi (sorry no photo). I quizzed them on “What the heck?”, but they insisted nothing was wrong…and move along…
And lastly, in between rogue sets, I saw a guy on a blue board get shacked on the Bronte reef – good ticker – he charged it. Well done.
Be safe out there. :: uge
Hint for surfers: if you stuck between Bronte and Tama in front of the rock wall(twins) on a big day, do not Panic and Do not climb the rocks. If you panic you’ll drown , if you climb the rocks you’ll hurt yourself and drown. Keep calm, most sets braking way before the rock wall anyway and all you get is whitewash it can reform with less energy(depends on the tide), just dive under it and paddle with the rip towards Tama and exit there. Done this path many times.
Or simply don’t be a Brazilian kook, and stay home. They have no respect for the place or locals. This kook deserves his wave/rock beatdown.