
Ela – ela!
Little Milos has had a rough history. Milos was forged from ancient volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis. Its coastline is super unique. Nothing quite like what I’ve seen before. Sarakíniko Beach (Σαρακίνικο) is like landing on a white moon that has a bright green inlet feeding into it. Underneath Sarakíniko there’s a warren of abandoned […]

🇬🇷 Milos – Μήλος
Crazy, I know, but I am back in Europe (Part II). This time, in the Aegean Sea on a tiny volcanic paradise island called Milos. Unlike its neighbouring islands of the Cyclades (Mykonos, Santorini), Milos isn’t all about partying. It’s mellow…no $500 lobster pastas on the menu, few superyachts and less bling. The beaches here aren’t […]

Yeah nah?
To go or not to go? Whilst the surf has tapered off, the winds are not blowing and there’s a clean head high wave on offer. With morning higher tides it definitely got some wonk on it. Surf now or on the lower tides? Will the wind come in? Dunno. I do know there’s a larger, […]

Tubular
The moons have aligned, the winds have calmed, the seas have settled. Bondi was looking pretty tasty at sunrise with hollow opportunities running on multiple banks. But…as the tide flooded in, quality dropped and it looks very straight now. (Which is confusing as normally high tide has better waves). So there was a little window […]

Moving Water
“Bondi” or “Boondi” is an Aboriginal word meaning water breaking over rocks or noise of water breaking over rocks. Lots of noise from breaking water this morning as the swell has spiked into the 4-5 foot region. Even a few bay closeouts. But…it’s not lining up well at all and our delicate sand banks don’t […]

Flashbacks
Today, well, today wasn’t much of a beach day. Yes, there’s more swell and it’s around 4 foot, but it’s rained a helluva lot and pretty ugly with onshore winds. I checked Bondi a few times, it’s surfable, but tomorrow morning should be cleaner. And so… I’ve travelled a lot in the past two months, […]

Turbo
Good start to the week. Head high, clean, closing out, chilly air temp but warm in. Morning’s low tide is making spectacular closeouts – more water – more fun. Ok next…grab a coffee and watch the highlights from our recent trip to WA on the Coral Coast (which includes Ningaloo + Exmouth + Whale Sharks). […]

City to Surf
We live in a great city. Sydney is surrounded by water. Most of us live close to a beach or nook in the harbour. Bondi is only 7.9 kilometres from the city and has good clean water – the amount of marine life in our ‘hood is a testament to this. Today’s photographs are a […]

Leopard Seal
It’s a frigid morning down there, so cold we’re attracting animal life from Antarctica! Yes, at 1:30 pm yesterday a Leopard Seal rolled up onto the beach at North Bondi for a look around, checking up on the councils’ progress of the North Bondi renovations and posed for a few cameras. Mr Seal has some mighty […]

Refresh
Really nice, neat morning. Small waves, but peeling beautifully. 1 foot. No wind, glassy as. Clear underwater and reasonably warm for this time of year. Swell coming later today. Pray that comes to fruition, I am foaming for a surf. Happy Birthday Joely! :: uge

Sublime
Blow open the curtains – it’s a glorious day outside in Sydney! Toot toot. It’s the middle of winter and we’re looking at a beefy 23 degrees today. It’s warm enough to hit the beach. Leave the boards at home, ’cause there’s nothing going on in that department. Crisp, clean air. The colours are perfect […]

Full Moon
After a whirlwind of planes and airports this month’s we’ve landed in Koh Samui, the third biggest island of Thailand. We’re officially avoiding a Sydney winter and chasing the summer around the globe. Even though our trip coincides with the famous full moon parties on neighbouring island Koh Pha-ngan, that’s not why we are here! […]

Friday Entertainment
It’s Friday and an early morning appointment didn’t allow me to shoot at sunrise – so I snapped a few during the middle of the day. Icebergs was sparkling clean and producing some serious blues. The surf is flat anyway… And so…let’s watch a 2-minute movie from my recent trip to Mallorca hey? Some incredible […]

Winter Quiet
It was a tranquil morning down the beach — not many people on the sand, promenade or in the surf. It looks like the cooler temps overnight kept everyone in bed. The skies filled with colour as a thin high cloud did its thing. The swell has dropped out. I saw waist to chest high […]

Clean Closeouts
It was a shame the tide was so low for my photos this morning (0.5m at 8:40 am). The conditions were clean, crisp, offshore and head high. It will improve a lot when the tide kicks back in…I hope. It is offshore all day long, so plenty of time. Have a coffee, and enjoy the […]

Runners
It is much smaller today but much prettier. The sun was out, thankfully, as it’s a bit frosty sitting on the beach without solar power. I saw some fun Bondi runners at 1-2 foot range. The banks are sweet so you can flick out the odd turn. It’s far from pumping but definitely surfable. The […]

Crank
After being in The Med for a couple of weeks, it’s so nice to see the ocean doing its thing! Waves. Hollow waves. Fun head high waves. The past few days have been very fruitful for surfers. The weather is overcast, rainy, grey, but you can find waves in Sydney today that will curl over […]

Homecoming
Whilst I was sweating it out on Ibiza’s beaches this week everyone was banging on about how epic the surf conditions are back in Australia and that I should rush back. I’m back! Shoulda been here yesterday I am guessing – because the beach this morning was less than inspirational for photography and surfing. Onshore, […]

Tours de playa
So our little Spanish Balearic Islands junket has come to an end. In 8 days we’ve seen so much, so many beaches. I am by no means an expert on Spain, but I have a lot of emails requesting info and thoughts of a Mallorca or Ibiza holiday. Mallorca Awesome island, a lot bigger than I […]

Formentera
Yesterday I met Formentera. All I can say, I will be back. Formentera is a small island hanging off the south of Ibiza. A little speed boat will cross over the 6km ditch…and then you’ll see some of Europe’s best beaches. For me, the water clarity, and unique electric blue colour was mind-blowing. It’s similar to […]

Ibiza
When I was a teenager, I was a raver. House music was doofing out of my car, and I worshipped Paul Oakenfeld. Back then, Ibiza was the mecca of clubbing and trans-house. I dreamt of partying here. Then the TV show ‘Ibiza uncovered’ came out – portraying the island as a Kutaesque filthy hole with […]

Paradise Found
Along my 20 year odyssey to discover the perfect beaches of the world, I’ve visited hundreds, if not thousands of pristine locations. For weeks I’d been Google-Earth-stalking one beach in Spain, that just looked too perfect on social media. I even chartered a helicopter to take me there as soon as I arrived, but the […]

Balearic
Ah yes, the Balearic Islands off Spain…summer paradise. The watercolours of some bays in Mallorca are off the hook. They don’t appear real. I read an article that the seabed of the island is rich in Cynical Posidonia, an alga that oxygenates the water, making it much more transparent. Whatever is going on here, it works! […]

Deia Dayz
We drove to the west side of Mallorca, crossed the mountains rolled down to the bay of Deia. Wow. It’s out of the wind over there and the coves (Cala) are pure glass and swimmable. The watercolours are off the hook on this island. Mallorca is bigger than you think – 100 kilometres x 100 […]

🇪🇸Mallorca
Hola! After 30 hours of travel from Sydney, I’ve arrived at the stunning Balearic Island of Mallorca (meaning ‘larger island’ in Latin). This rocky island has been the host of many sunseekers in The Med for centuries. The Romans, Audrey Hepburns and Elizabeth Taylors all have hung out here – hell…even our very own late Christopher Skase fled […]

Winter Cuts
The run of swell and cold mornings continue. Bondi had plenty of waves, it looked more south today. The sun is out – enjoy – as lots of rain coming next week. I saw sets in the 3-4 foot range this morning. It’s getting a bit big for those weak Bondi sandbanks – heaps of […]

5.8 degrees
Geez, it was a cold morning. Just before the sun rose, it was 5.8 degrees. That offshore wind had a bit on it. The week of waves continues. It looks like we’ve got a mix of old east swell and new south swells. It was quite messy and fat this morning at Bondaka. The winds […]

Back in Business
It’s looking much better down the beach this morning – in all aspects. The rain has stopped, and we have clear skies – albeit quite cold on land, especially before that sun rose. The swell is still in town from the SE. It’s a lot more organised and breaking better this morning. It has dropped […]

Shelter
Today’s photos were taken from a series of bus stops, cliff overhangs, public toilets and shopfront awnings! Anything to find a bit of shelter from the nemesis rain squalls. We have waves. It’s super junkie, random, manky. Surfable yes? 2-4 ft. Cranking – No. Empty line up – Yes! Rain – plenty. Clouds Clearing – […]

Deluge
Hey, you made it! All the way down the bottom of this email to the actual editorial. Good on you! It’s bucketing down in Sydney today. It hasn’t stopped. Let’s hope it’s raining in all the right places to fill up our dams. They need it. I wasn’t feeling inspired down the beach this morning, […]

⚡Bonus Sections
Well…hello. What’s this? A little spike in swell? Bondi had fun waves around the shoulder high range this morning. Very slow and inconsistent, but worthy of a surf. It’s from the dead south – so Bondaka would be showing the most fruit. Chilly 10 knots of westerly will freeze the tootsies on the way back […]

HI-RES
Quiet, warm, small, still… That’s how I’d summarize this morning. Some cool textures in the sky…but that’s about it! All these images, including the long lens shots, are taken with a Phaseone Trichromatic 100mp setup. Not a new camera, something I’ve had in my kit for decades, but usually only rip it out for tripod […]

Autumn Golds
A pleasant surprise to see a swell increase this morning. I saw waves up to around the chest high, with the odd head high set. A huge early crew out scrambling for anything moving (standard). The seaweed is still dominating the left into the southern corner. The average maximum temperature for June in Sydney is […]

Good Bondi Weed
Bondi has a great batch of weed at the moment. Some of the best weed I’ve seen in years. It’s thick, fury and plentiful…be careful, it will try and engulf you! What a sensational day. Ultra clean conditions with little or no wind. Sunshine was out but rising late as we approach the winter solstice […]

Indo Swim
You can swim for hours up here. The water is ultra-warm and crystal clear. Typically there are no rips, even in big surf. Usually, there’s a safe channel for paddling out alongside most breaks – that makes shooting a sinch. The Indo surf season is now kicking off and a large south swell is due next […]

Pro Cameo
We had a quiet little surf on a fun left in the southern end of the Mentawais. We took turns on sets – all scoring. There was no wind, it was hot, and the waves were head high with sets in the head’n’half range. It was just us… An hour into our session, the Sibon […]

Le Gauche
Indonesia is the land of the left-handers. Indo’s orientation to the great swells from the Indian Ocean means they break left more than right. A goofy footer’s paradise. I reckon we surf 4 lefts to every right. I’m a natural footer! Our bump in swell is dropping and the swell magnets are still putting on a show. […]

Ignite
Hey, how are you? 2 weeks ago, we saw a swell on the charts that would coincide with the middle of our boat trip. And yep, it arrived right on time and produced the goods. Mentawais has ignited. Waves are pulsing, and the boats are spreading out to their favourite reefs. We’ve surfed all day […]

Ombak Tidur
Ombak tidur…the waves have gone to sleep. We’re up here in Mentawais awaiting an inbound swell. Usually, in May, we cop a heap of big surf that is fed by the storms down below Western Australia in The Roaring 40s. The swell charts show promise and the boys on the boat are getting’ twitchy. We’ve had […]

Telos
Hi. I’m in Indonesia for my annual surf-infused junket and loving it! We’re surfing the dregs of that swell that hit Bali for the WSL finals, and I won’t lie, it’s now small. When it’s small you can hit the exposed beaches which seem to always have a head high wave…and they’re so hollow. Not […]