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Paradise Found
Along my 20 year odyssey to discover the perfect beaches of the world, I’ve visited hundreds, if not thousands of pristine locations. For weeks I’d been Google-Earth-stalking one beach in Spain, that just looked too perfect on social media. I even chartered a helicopter to take me there as soon as I arrived, but the […]
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Balearic
Ah yes, the Balearic Islands off Spain…summer paradise. The watercolours of some bays in Mallorca are off the hook. They don’t appear real. I read an article that the seabed of the island is rich in Cynical Posidonia, an alga that oxygenates the water, making it much more transparent. Whatever is going on here, it works! […]
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Deia Dayz
We drove to the west side of Mallorca, crossed the mountains rolled down to the bay of Deia. Wow. It’s out of the wind over there and the coves (Cala) are pure glass and swimmable. The watercolours are off the hook on this island. Mallorca is bigger than you think – 100 kilometres x 100 […]
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🇪🇸Mallorca
Hola! After 30 hours of travel from Sydney, I’ve arrived at the stunning Balearic Island of Mallorca (meaning ‘larger island’ in Latin). This rocky island has been the host of many sunseekers in The Med for centuries. The Romans, Audrey Hepburns and Elizabeth Taylors all have hung out here – hell…even our very own late Christopher Skase fled […]
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Winter Cuts
The run of swell and cold mornings continue. Bondi had plenty of waves, it looked more south today. The sun is out – enjoy – as lots of rain coming next week. I saw sets in the 3-4 foot range this morning. It’s getting a bit big for those weak Bondi sandbanks – heaps of […]
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5.8 degrees
Geez, it was a cold morning. Just before the sun rose, it was 5.8 degrees. That offshore wind had a bit on it. The week of waves continues. It looks like we’ve got a mix of old east swell and new south swells. It was quite messy and fat this morning at Bondaka. The winds […]
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Back in Business
It’s looking much better down the beach this morning – in all aspects. The rain has stopped, and we have clear skies – albeit quite cold on land, especially before that sun rose. The swell is still in town from the SE. It’s a lot more organised and breaking better this morning. It has dropped […]
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Shelter
Today’s photos were taken from a series of bus stops, cliff overhangs, public toilets and shopfront awnings! Anything to find a bit of shelter from the nemesis rain squalls. We have waves. It’s super junkie, random, manky. Surfable yes? 2-4 ft. Cranking – No. Empty line up – Yes! Rain – plenty. Clouds Clearing – […]
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Deluge
Hey, you made it! All the way down the bottom of this email to the actual editorial. Good on you! It’s bucketing down in Sydney today. It hasn’t stopped. Let’s hope it’s raining in all the right places to fill up our dams. They need it. I wasn’t feeling inspired down the beach this morning, […]
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⚡Bonus Sections
Well…hello. What’s this? A little spike in swell? Bondi had fun waves around the shoulder high range this morning. Very slow and inconsistent, but worthy of a surf. It’s from the dead south – so Bondaka would be showing the most fruit. Chilly 10 knots of westerly will freeze the tootsies on the way back […]
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HI-RES
Quiet, warm, small, still… That’s how I’d summarize this morning. Some cool textures in the sky…but that’s about it! All these images, including the long lens shots, are taken with a Phaseone Trichromatic 100mp setup. Not a new camera, something I’ve had in my kit for decades, but usually only rip it out for tripod […]
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Autumn Golds
A pleasant surprise to see a swell increase this morning. I saw waves up to around the chest high, with the odd head high set. A huge early crew out scrambling for anything moving (standard). The seaweed is still dominating the left into the southern corner. The average maximum temperature for June in Sydney is […]
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Good Bondi Weed
Bondi has a great batch of weed at the moment. Some of the best weed I’ve seen in years. It’s thick, fury and plentiful…be careful, it will try and engulf you! What a sensational day. Ultra clean conditions with little or no wind. Sunshine was out but rising late as we approach the winter solstice […]
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Indo Swim
You can swim for hours up here. The water is ultra-warm and crystal clear. Typically there are no rips, even in big surf. Usually, there’s a safe channel for paddling out alongside most breaks – that makes shooting a sinch. The Indo surf season is now kicking off and a large south swell is due next […]
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Pro Cameo
We had a quiet little surf on a fun left in the southern end of the Mentawais. We took turns on sets – all scoring. There was no wind, it was hot, and the waves were head high with sets in the head’n’half range. It was just us… An hour into our session, the Sibon […]
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Le Gauche
Indonesia is the land of the left-handers. Indo’s orientation to the great swells from the Indian Ocean means they break left more than right. A goofy footer’s paradise. I reckon we surf 4 lefts to every right. I’m a natural footer! Our bump in swell is dropping and the swell magnets are still putting on a show. […]
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Ignite
Hey, how are you? 2 weeks ago, we saw a swell on the charts that would coincide with the middle of our boat trip. And yep, it arrived right on time and produced the goods. Mentawais has ignited. Waves are pulsing, and the boats are spreading out to their favourite reefs. We’ve surfed all day […]