Down South

My family and I have arrived in the Margaret River region of Western Australia’s South-west and the surf is lighting up. It’s been pretty big.

I grew up in Perth and learnt to surf ‘Down South’. I haven’t been back in years so it brings back a lotta memories. It’s a wild place…so raw. I forgot just how raw.

My first car was a HJ 1966 Holden Ute. With a double mattress in the tray, it was my mobile ‘Down South’ home, and I used to park it at night where I’d want to surf the next day. We’d eat at the pub and wake early to surf in the dark – before the crowds and the onshores.

Lots of the surf breaks required an expensive 4WD to cross rugged and boggy terrain, still do…but this trip I’m not walking the track!

Margaret River Main is the break everyone knows because of the world tour stop. Truth be known, I’ve never surfed the joint in my life as there’s around 100 other waves pumping (sans humans) if Main Break is on. You just gotta explore a little.

I hope you enjoy this journey down the coast to break up my Bondi updates. Something different…

:: uge