I shot my 6300th sunrise this morning down at Bondi Beach, so I am qualified to say this…it was a cracker. One of the greatest. Why so good? I look for interesting cloud formations. A cloudless morning isn’t that impressive for sunrise pics. This morning had a great bunch of puffy clouds hovering over Ben […]

First up, let’s wrap the week with a tiny 1-minute video called ‘PLUME’, all shot this week, around here. C’mon, you’re not that busy that you can’t watch 60 seconds of waves…taking your mind elsewhere. Ok now, let’s talk about this morning…it was such a weird one. It looked way too cloudy to have anything […]

After a couple days of rest, the thumpin’ swells are back. What a good supply! Flanking the mighty chunks we’ve got howling offshores, creating really interesting plumes. Good shooting fodder. Sadly the swell is TOO big for Bondi Beach. It’s maxed out, closing out. You need to surf elsewhere. :: uge

Bondi had some really fun waves this morning. We’re all loving our new sand banks created from the recent mega swell. Lots of peaks up and down the beach, so many options.  It was only head high, but there’s a bit of lip to it…making it rippable. Mum, that translates to ‘Good waves to surf’ […]

Well…where do I start?  OK, maybe watch this first. The weekend was full of rogue south swell. What an action packed weekend! So much going on. 10 footers were a common sight. I thought it was quite hard to find surfable waves though. I didn’t search too hard, but it was maxing out, everywhere. Yesterday […]

A nice morning to wake up to 6-foot waves in Sydney. The offshores are freezing though. Dress up for the occasion. It’s a south swell and a bit too big for Bondi, which was empty. Bondi can’t handle waves over head high – we need a reef for that. A few nooks and crannies around the […]

Well, Alluelia…looky what we have here today. S W E L L. The good stuff. Stuff from the south and around 4 foot. A small was crowd enjoying the fruits of a new swell at sunrise. The offshores were keeping it neat and tidy, and sometimes hollow. So good to see swell after a rather […]

Well, it’s not exactly J-Bay. About the only thing we have in common with J-Bay today is shark sightings. Bondi is pretty tiny, micro, minuscule. Clean though. J-Bay on the other hand was pumping yesterday. How good was it? How about the day ending with yet another shark in the lineup? (Julian Wilson may be […]

In Winter the light is so much cleaner, crisper. In Summer we seem to get this hazy light, like a blurry filter over everything. Nah, not now. Not in July. I see crispy clean warm colours, everywhere I look. Anything looks good in this light. Anything. The Corona J-Bay Open is firing. Here is my […]

The number 8 is considered very lucky to the Chinese. Pronounce ‘Ba’…similar to ‘Fa’ which means making a fortune! This morning was 8 degrees down the beach. A very r-ucky morning indeed! A wealth of sunshine, windless beaches and warm water. All we need is swell. Great conditions for my six-year-old son. Come on Huey! Throw us […]

1st up…It’s Friday so I’ve made a 1 min film clip of the week. (mostly shot this morning). Yeah, it’s cold outside. It’s surprisingly warm still in the water. The only hard part is getting into a damp wettie in the dark and sprinting across the icy sand. The rest is a breeze. Our London […]

An almighty thick cloud blocked our light for most of the morning. There was lots of waiting around, waiting for it to come good. Around 8am it did just that. Golden light burst across the Bondi bay from North. Nice! Waves – yes, we’ve got head high closeouts. Some of Australia’s finest closeouts can be […]

It was an odd kinda morning. The change is here. It looked inviting (for a bit) then dumped rain. I’m writing this with rays of sunshine spraying into the studio…so I’m assuming all good now? Maybe. The weather is messing with us. Flirting with us. We cannot complain as we’ve had a fantastic run of […]

Yet again, another winter corker. Fortunately, the swell spiked up a bit. Clean air, clear skies, warm water – the whole bit. I’ve got this week’s Episode 3 ready to go, all filmed around here by yours truly. Every Friday I will try to release a short film summarising the week just gone. Grab a cuppa, […]

I had a most enjoyable swim this morning. It was really quite something. It’s a combo of heavenly warm water, crisp winter sunshine and little wind. The waves are tiny, yet with a good attitude and longboard, you’d have a blast! The sand is freezing though. It’s a quick dash across. Looking at the swell […]

Justin Beiber was in Bondi yesterday. Shirtless. Inked. Parading. The word is that he’s here to shop at Louis Vuitton’s pop-up store on Roscoe, others say he’s here for a Hillsong mega conference. I thought he was looking for some Aquabumps prints from the gallery…but we all know why he’s here…our new Ferris wheel. It’s […]

What a beautiful crispy morning. Nowhere near as cold as yesterday huh? A few layers still required. Bondi hosted waist to chest high waves. That’s a good size for Bondi. Any bigger and it tends to close out. I saw some fun runners on an incoming tide. Surfing forecast is for really small waves all […]

It was a dark cold morning. I found myself kicking around waiting for some the light. We’ve now past the winter solstice (June 21) so the days will get longer slightly from here. Hooray. There are waves around, head high on sets. The offshores are grooming and making for good conditions. It’s pretty darn cold […]

I’ve never seen such unrideable 3 footers. We have a south swell with waves breaking at Bondi around head high, but they are 100% closing out. I tried shooting surfing for 1 hour – and look what I came up with! That’s saying something. Perhaps it was the low tide and the incoming will pad […]

Quite an interesting setup down the beach this morning. We had crazy, dark, puffy clouds on the south side, raw golden sunlight to the north. It lit up like a Christmas tree, for a minute or two around 7:20 am. Very cold morning, felt like around 8 degrees with a wind chill. Waves – very […]

After a really cold start, things are starting to warm up. The winds are frosty offshore, it’s SO much warmer in the water than it is out. It felt like a bath. There is a right-hand rip bowl at South Bondi. It’s only 2 foot and heaps of water running out, so maintaining a relevant […]

This morning was one of those jaw-dropping, all-inspiring, stop-what-ya-doing, have-a-good-gork sunrises. One of those vivid colour sprays that make the images look PhotoChopped. I hope you saw it. The surf wasn’t half bad either folks. I saw plenty of head high glory out there. It looked clean and more from the East. Yes, south facing Bondi […]

I was gonna work up some elaborate, convoluted story as to why I haven’t been shooting these past two days in Sydney – especially when it’s been pumping in parts….well…ahem…the truth of the matter is that I’ve got a sick little fella at home and a wifie on tour. This time of year our kids […]

Damn dark and gloomy down the beach this morning. #nonevent We’ve got junkie swells flanked with a southerly. Bondi look pretty wild with random, twisted, buckled peaks. Surfable…debatable. As I write this a ray of sunshine, 1st for the day has struck my keyboard. Alleluia. 1st bit of vitamin D I’ve seen since the Ments. : […]

I’ve been waiting for an ugly Bondi morning to showcase our last hurrah in Mentawais. Today’s it! After an unimpressive 10 seconds down at Bondi Beach this morning I resorted to a coffee and direct route to the gallery. In my quick beach scan, I saw a super junkie 3-foot rainy mess out there. Really not […]

Coupla little waves on offer this morning. It ain’t pumping, but it’s contestable. A bit of junk in the morning sess, maybe that’ll get ironed out as the day progresses. Swell will go tiny tomorrow before rocking back up on Tuesday. Whilst were we scoring 8 foot plus in Mentawais last week Taj and a […]

Today, I thought you might like something different. Maybe a 1-minute video version of my morning swim? All filmed this morning and edited in 17.5 mins. Watch now Good to see a little increase in swell around Sydney. It’s coming in from the South and around shoulder high. The incoming tide will push in head […]

We’re moving into that winter phase where the beaches are empty in the mornings. It’s like a ghost town. Especially after a sunrise rain squall, everyone just goes directly to work and skips their morning beach visit. The surf is quite lame. A flimsy 1-2 foot suitable for the beginners. Tomorrow afternoon there is a […]

I’m back in Bondi. Missed me huh? People often ask why I go to Indonesia so much. I made a rough little video that might shed some light on my attraction to the islands. Grab a cuppa and WATCH NOW (all shot and edited by a stills guy – so go easy!). The recent trip […]

I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]

Wind and waves are going to be at their best in The Mentawais this week (so I’ve been told). We’ve been in a holding pattern for a couple of days waiting for the new swells to fill in. Still surfing daily, just not much over 3-4 foot. Still, plenty to do outside surfing around here. […]

Most nights in Mentawais it glasses off. Pure silk. Best time to surf. The land cools down and the coastal convection relaxes. Last night was pretty special…awesome colours and 4-6 foot waves. We surfed a break in the main part of Mentawais – in the Playgrounds region. I won’t lie – it’s busy. Land camps are […]

The winds have gone light, and swell magnets are starting to fire. (In Mentawai Islands that is). Mentawais are an archipelago of surf rich islands that hug the south coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. The area is famous for its barrels, as nearly all waves are on shallow coral reefs. People come from all over the globe […]

Our Mentawai voyage is off to a slow start this year. That’s cool; it can’t pump every day here. An off day in The Ments is head high anyway…that eases the jolt from our training grounds; the Bondi Beach rip bowls to these hollow coral reef breaks. There is still plenty of other things to do […]

I’m back in Bondi today after my brief fling with W.A. Damn the weather is mighty fine back here. It may be a little chilly in the wind and shade, but the water is amazing. We’re lucky to be swimming at this time of year. The waves are not so fortunate. It’s tiny and slapping […]

G’day from W.A.! The mining boom might be over, and sleepy old Perth has quietened down, but the place still blows my mind for raw beauty. I was born here…but spent most of my life on the East Coast. I haven’t returned home for many, many years, so I went and checked out some of […]

It may not be 8 foot out there, like yesterday, but there is still waves to be surfed. I reckon it’s only 3-4 foot now, from the south. The NW winds are cleaning up everything – this morning is ideal for a session. Paddle out if you can. The next 7 days look small. Today […]

There is a new long period south swell rocking Sydney as I write this. Oh boy, it’s big! On paper, it was hard to determine what actually would happen this morning. 2-metre swell, 15 second period. It’s the period that was the X factor. I knew it would be good, but I didn’t realise it would […]

Excitement levels are extremely low today down the beach. The swell has gone, the clear skies are now full of dark rain clouds. It’s a day to do some work. It will rain from now until Sunday night. Binge out on Netflix this weekend. There will be surfable waves all weekend with a new swell. […]

What a fantastic day to be in Sydney. Superb weather, offshore winds and 3-4 foot waves. Swell is now coming from the SE, lighting up most beaches. I bet your local had something… If you can’t get down the beach today, don’t stress. The forecast looks quite healthy for the next week. More 3 foot/offshore […]