To begin our daily chat today I have a video from my most recent trip, Nihiwatu (Sumba Indonesia). WATCH NOW (hey, it’s only 2 mins, if you think you don’t have time to watch a 2 min vid then you need a holiday!) Proper good times this morning. The swell has kicked around to the […]

The swell has gone NE and Bondi is lacking. The great thing about Sydney is that we have beaches that face all kinds of directions, so if you just pop over the hill you will find something breaking. Tamarama had a few nuggets on the low tide. The tide is filling up now so I […]

I’m back in the ‘hood after my quick fling with Perth Metro waves. So nice and quiet over there. Decent little junkie waves at Bondi this morning. Good to see our sandbanks are holding tight. Few fun little runners. It’s school holidays in NSW and Bondi feels quiet, like everyone has left town. People ask me […]

A quick stop in Perth Western Australia proved quite fruitful. An NE swell is in the Sandgroper City and there is plenty of peaks worthy of a surf. City Beach, of all places, had pretty incredible little hollow rights off the groyne… My fascination for the ocean began around here in Perth. As kids, we […]

The weekend was the 1st big one for the season – hot, muggy, crowded with northerly winds – just perfect for a lazy Sunday afternoon on our beloved coastline. A lot of wintery bleached white bods on the beach, hunting their first dose of a base tan. Waves – not really happening today or on […]

I vote YES to surfing today! YES! tick. Suns out, waves are consistent, rip bowls are on. It’s pretty crowded and hard to get a wave at Bondi, so I would go for a drive and score my friends. The weather is just awesome and tomorrow is going to hit 28 degrees. Perfect for the […]

Firstly, I want to apologise. The images in today’s post are full of dust spots. When you shoot arty pharty slow shutters (with tiny apertures) you need a squeaky clean image sensor – that I don’t have. So instead of spending the next 3 hours de-dusting these shots, I ran ’em…just as they are. If […]

It’s dropped off a helluva lot overnight. Leftover dribbles best suited to large surf craft with volumes well into the thirties. That’s cool, tomorrow the swell will return. The next few days should have fun waves, tomorrow being the biggest. The Bondi Barefoot is on Sunday, 24 September 2017. It’s a bunch of soft sand races […]

Heaps of swell around from the SSE. Bondi came alive this morning with a constant supply. If only the banks were better… Combo this with North winds and you’ve got a fun day ahead (especially Mondays when everyone is chained to the cubicles). Here is your brief of what you need to know: Tiny surf […]

This could be the earliest post from me in months. Grab a cuppa and I will talk you through what’s happening down the beach this morning. We have swell, plenty actually. Bondi wasn’t great though. A rippy swim from South Bondi to the Lifeguard tower with my camera was fruitless…basically connecting with no one. I swam […]

Scroll down… As you can see plenty of surfing action this morning. It was only 2-3 foot and a bit weird, but definitely fun. I wasn’t anticipating much swell this morning, I knew it was coming though. Tonight it will pulse and tomorrow should be decent. The winds are howling WSW offshore around 25 knots. […]

It’s a cooking spring day with a freaky 32 degrees on the forecast. How good… The beach was humming with activity this morning as the masses flocked to Bondi for their slice of this warm day. Did you get in? Cold in. Waves were meant to be a tiny 1-2 foot, but I saw sets over […]

The surf has calmed down and oh boy the crowds have laid it on thick. All manner of wave craft and their mad pilots hit the beach at sunrise. Multiple banks in operation, some big gaping holes in the sand banks making fat burger sections. Nonetheless, fun little waves around head high on offer. Clean […]

I’m back in town. How about all this swell in Sydney aye? Damn, yesterday I saw some monsters rolling into Bondi (10 footers plus plus). It’s calmed down today and surfable(ish). Wished that swell had hit Occys Left last week, I was there waiting for it and didn’t’ score anything over head high. Sumba has […]

These daily updates are starting to turn weekly huh? Nah. It’s back to normal next week. Today’s post comes from a unique place called Sumba. Sumba is an island within 1 hours flight from Bali, Indonesia. It’s where time has stood still…it’s remote, isolated, where the people are unaffected by the outside world. Some say […]