It was a dark cold morning. I found myself kicking around waiting for some the light. We’ve now past the winter solstice (June 21) so the days will get longer slightly from here. Hooray. There are waves around, head high on sets. The offshores are grooming and making for good conditions. It’s pretty darn cold […]

I’ve never seen such unrideable 3 footers. We have a south swell with waves breaking at Bondi around head high, but they are 100% closing out. I tried shooting surfing for 1 hour – and look what I came up with! That’s saying something. Perhaps it was the low tide and the incoming will pad […]

Quite an interesting setup down the beach this morning. We had crazy, dark, puffy clouds on the south side, raw golden sunlight to the north. It lit up like a Christmas tree, for a minute or two around 7:20 am. Very cold morning, felt like around 8 degrees with a wind chill. Waves – very […]

After a really cold start, things are starting to warm up. The winds are frosty offshore, it’s SO much warmer in the water than it is out. It felt like a bath. There is a right-hand rip bowl at South Bondi. It’s only 2 foot and heaps of water running out, so maintaining a relevant […]

This morning was one of those jaw-dropping, all-inspiring, stop-what-ya-doing, have-a-good-gork sunrises. One of those vivid colour sprays that make the images look PhotoChopped. I hope you saw it. The surf wasn’t half bad either folks. I saw plenty of head high glory out there. It looked clean and more from the East. Yes, south facing Bondi […]

I was gonna work up some elaborate, convoluted story as to why I haven’t been shooting these past two days in Sydney – especially when it’s been pumping in parts….well…ahem…the truth of the matter is that I’ve got a sick little fella at home and a wifie on tour. This time of year our kids […]

Damn dark and gloomy down the beach this morning. #nonevent We’ve got junkie swells flanked with a southerly. Bondi look pretty wild with random, twisted, buckled peaks. Surfable…debatable. As I write this a ray of sunshine, 1st for the day has struck my keyboard. Alleluia. 1st bit of vitamin D I’ve seen since the Ments. : […]

I’ve been waiting for an ugly Bondi morning to showcase our last hurrah in Mentawais. Today’s it! After an unimpressive 10 seconds down at Bondi Beach this morning I resorted to a coffee and direct route to the gallery. In my quick beach scan, I saw a super junkie 3-foot rainy mess out there. Really not […]

Coupla little waves on offer this morning. It ain’t pumping, but it’s contestable. A bit of junk in the morning sess, maybe that’ll get ironed out as the day progresses. Swell will go tiny tomorrow before rocking back up on Tuesday. Whilst were we scoring 8 foot plus in Mentawais last week Taj and a […]

Today, I thought you might like something different. Maybe a 1-minute video version of my morning swim? All filmed this morning and edited in 17.5 mins. Watch now Good to see a little increase in swell around Sydney. It’s coming in from the South and around shoulder high. The incoming tide will push in head […]

We’re moving into that winter phase where the beaches are empty in the mornings. It’s like a ghost town. Especially after a sunrise rain squall, everyone just goes directly to work and skips their morning beach visit. The surf is quite lame. A flimsy 1-2 foot suitable for the beginners. Tomorrow afternoon there is a […]

I’m back in Bondi. Missed me huh? People often ask why I go to Indonesia so much. I made a rough little video that might shed some light on my attraction to the islands. Grab a cuppa and WATCH NOW (all shot and edited by a stills guy – so go easy!). The recent trip […]

I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]

Wind and waves are going to be at their best in The Mentawais this week (so I’ve been told). We’ve been in a holding pattern for a couple of days waiting for the new swells to fill in. Still surfing daily, just not much over 3-4 foot. Still, plenty to do outside surfing around here. […]

Most nights in Mentawais it glasses off. Pure silk. Best time to surf. The land cools down and the coastal convection relaxes. Last night was pretty special…awesome colours and 4-6 foot waves. We surfed a break in the main part of Mentawais – in the Playgrounds region. I won’t lie – it’s busy. Land camps are […]

The winds have gone light, and swell magnets are starting to fire. (In Mentawai Islands that is). Mentawais are an archipelago of surf rich islands that hug the south coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. The area is famous for its barrels, as nearly all waves are on shallow coral reefs. People come from all over the globe […]