Below
Our Mentawai voyage is off to a slow start this year. That’s cool; it can’t pump every day here. An off day in The Ments is head high anyway…that eases the jolt from our training grounds; the Bondi Beach rip bowls to these hollow coral reef breaks. There is still plenty of other things to do […]
Shorey Frolic
I’m back in Bondi today after my brief fling with W.A. Damn the weather is mighty fine back here. It may be a little chilly in the wind and shade, but the water is amazing. We’re lucky to be swimming at this time of year. The waves are not so fortunate. It’s tiny and slapping […]
Rotto
G’day from W.A.! The mining boom might be over, and sleepy old Perth has quietened down, but the place still blows my mind for raw beauty. I was born here…but spent most of my life on the East Coast. I haven’t returned home for many, many years, so I went and checked out some of […]
8 -> 4
It may not be 8 foot out there, like yesterday, but there is still waves to be surfed. I reckon it’s only 3-4 foot now, from the south. The NW winds are cleaning up everything – this morning is ideal for a session. Paddle out if you can. The next 7 days look small. Today […]
The Big Boys
There is a new long period south swell rocking Sydney as I write this. Oh boy, it’s big! On paper, it was hard to determine what actually would happen this morning. 2-metre swell, 15 second period. It’s the period that was the X factor. I knew it would be good, but I didn’t realise it would […]
Dowsing
Excitement levels are extremely low today down the beach. The swell has gone, the clear skies are now full of dark rain clouds. It’s a day to do some work. It will rain from now until Sunday night. Binge out on Netflix this weekend. There will be surfable waves all weekend with a new swell. […]
Golden Treats
What a fantastic day to be in Sydney. Superb weather, offshore winds and 3-4 foot waves. Swell is now coming from the SE, lighting up most beaches. I bet your local had something… If you can’t get down the beach today, don’t stress. The forecast looks quite healthy for the next week. More 3 foot/offshore […]
Pre-blow
It might be cold out, but it’s very warm in. You should get wet. The swell has come to the party, and we now have waves around head high. Winds are SW, that’s offshore – which is great. But I reckon by the time you read this email it will swing around to the SSE […]
Wishy-washy
Bondi this morning was kinda bland. I rode around looking for something interesting to shoot…but ended up returning home to continue rock’n’roll wrestling part IV with the maniac tykes. The waves looked small and full, barely anyone out. Even the shore was empty as it began to spit. Not really a beach day at all. […]
Modulation
After a sensational week of weather (and some waves) things have changed. Bondi put on some grovelly 2 footers. Winds were ideal from the Sou-West, soon to be East. Huge crowd out early. Nothing special, don’t worry, you’re not missing out. Small waves tomorrow and really small waves for Mother’s Day Sunday. Spend all day […]
Paradise Found
I travel the world in search of perfect waves and idyllic empty beaches….sometimes you’ve just gotta look in your own backyard. Check out Hyams Beach at Jervis Bay. The Guinness Book of Records rates this beach as having the whitest sand in the world…and some pretty insanely blue water to match. What treat! Jervis is […]
The Gong!
There is no doubting it, New South Wales is such a diverse and naturally gifted state. We have countless beaches with clear, warm, surfable water. I want to shoot them all. A helicopter helps with this mission. This morning I was flying around Wollongong, taking in all the nooks and crannies of the beachside haven. […]
Pronto
The swell has finally kicked and the winds are a gentle SW offshore. Bingo! It’s starting to get a bit big for our fickle Bondi sand banks, but there’s a few worth riding earlier today. Out the back is quite fat, shoreys looked super hollow and fun. Waves in the 4-5 foot range (10am). It […]
Saline
Brrr, what a cold morning. My phone said it was 11 degrees before the sun rose, but the wind chill was much, much less. My guess, 8 degrees. At precisely 4:30 pm last night the swell leapt from flat to 3 foot. Today it’s smaller, mainly concealed by a 6:31 am high tide. Our little sand bank […]
Salty
I coulda swore the forecast was for small waves this morning. What a nice surprise to see 3-4 footers at Bondi – YES! It was a different kinda morning. Water moving around everywhere, dragging me with it. I shot the left that turned into a right. Rights that turned into burgers. Then a few lefts […]
Bump
There was a little bump to surf this morning. It’s definitely not pumping. Let’s just call it surfable. Surfable with a very hungry pack on it. I have to admit, I thought it was going to be a hell of a lot better today than what I am seeing. On paper, it looked the goods. […]
Onshore Galore
It’s howling…onshore. 20 knots of southerly tearing it up. It will calm down around 7 pm tonight. I hope it brings swell. I saw waves around 3ft, but very messy. Very very messy. My suggestion is windsurfing today! Warren Miller’s 67th snow film and 30th year of touring Aus. If you have never been, this […]
Autumn
What great conditions we have in town at the moment. Pretty much offshore winds all day long. We could do with a bit more swell though. Fortunately tomorrow the swell will leap up into the surfable to good range. Be patient and get some work done today. It’s 1 month out for the Bondi SurfAid […]
Pleasure
Beautiful, damn fine, salubrious morning down at Bondi Beach today. The type of morning that’s it’s such a pleasure to do my job – swim. There are remnants of the weekend’s swell, clear blue water, clear skies and a positive vibe. New big swell arriving Wednesday/Thursday this week. We are getting a swell once a […]