So many places would be lighting up today…most of them are a minimum 3-4 hours drive away from here. Every time I book a day of meetings you can be assured 6 foot pumping south swell! Yes give me a tissue… If you’re reading this you really should get outside and go for a drive […]

There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]

I never kinda got surfing the North end of Bondi. It’s a weird ‘wave’. In large surf conditions, like today, it’s surfable – but definitely not awesome. A rapid rip sucks out along the kiddie pool making the waves peak…but many close out. Occasionally it tubes. Rare though. A few times I have seen it […]

I found the beach a little uninspiring this morning so I drifted inland to the bohemian suburb of Surry Hills, only a few k’s away. That’s the good thing about living in Bondi we’re so close to the city. Surry Hills was dead quiet at 6am. Like a ghost town. Love all the old houses […]

Today it’s just not happening down the beach. The waves have thinned out into near flatness. The sunrise tried to put something on…a blanket of thick storm clouds shut that down. There was a chill in the air. Can feel it can’t ya? It’s confusing what to wear in the changing seasons. Surfers – sit […]

OK, call off the man hunt. I am here…alive and well. Sorry about my radio silence over the past 10 days. I went off grid. No cameras, technology, social media or selfie sticks. I surfed and enjoyed moments without thinking F8, 400mm or ISO250…I’m now recharged with fresh eyes and have a decent sun tan. […]

Went for a quick swim this morning and took these snaps. Little clean wave on offer, only 1-2 foot. Banks are pretty decent and suit a smaller swell. Cora got a shot of me shooting Lukey Daniels…just if you are curious how to get these shots. Gotta get in close. We have a full time […]

Every day is different down the beach. Today has head high waves and smothered with clouds at sunrise. Completely the opposite to yesterday. The waves look fun…I would if I could… It was chilly at sunrise…autumn gears are kicking in. The weather looks awesome on Thursday and Friday (waves too). ::uge

Every morning I peer through my blinds hoping that just the right amount of cloud will be in the correct position to light up above Bondi. Today it was on. Amazing colours to greet this fine day. Still after 16 years of Bondi sunrises I get stoked to wake up to this! Even though the […]

Gotta give it to those One Wave crew, they’ve surely started something big. It’s their 2nd birthday today and an enormous crowd rolled down to Bondi at sunrise. It could not have been a better morning for the crew. No waves, warm water and stunning sunrise. Bondi is surfless. North East swells don’t even enter […]

With all this East swell it made sense to go for a drive and have a look around. Bondi neglects the current swell direction and it was tiny. It’s dropped quite a lot overnight. I found waves only in the 2 foot range at exposed beaches. Nothing fantastic. Really warm, comfortable conditions early – which […]

All the action today is happening 10 metres off the shoreline. No flippers required. The high tide put on some shorey action. T’was fun! East swell producing some small 2 footers with 3 foot sets. Super clean and glassy at sunrise. 30 degrees today, hot. Thunderstorms coming… ::uge

The 6:00am high tide swallowed up anything worth surfing this morning. By the time you read this it should be close to low…and probably much better. Lovin’ these autumn mornings. The air feels clean, the light is warm and the sun rises later so I can have more of a sleep in! Small waves all […]

It was an all-star cast down at Bondi this morning enjoying 2-3 footers. Everywhere I looked someone was doing a major hack, air, tailwaft…etc…etc. Taj Burrow must of heard about our good waves and stopped by on his way home (W.A. could have some big waves this weekend). Love Monday’s as the crowds are super […]

The south storms have arrived and wintery conditions have taken over. The southerly was howling 20 knots this morning, that’s OK…Bondi can be fun with the onshore mess. OK, maybe not as windy as this morning but at least it’s bringing some swell. You might find some head high runners later today. The Quiksilver Pro […]

This morning I went for my routine swim to assess the surf and water conditions for you. It was real pretty at 6:45am…some amazing colours scattered across the skies. The water was warm and semi-clear. The waves were a small, 1-2 foot and lacking substance. Swell arrives tomorrow…phew. I spent 30 minutes chasing string rays, […]

Nice clean, small waves this morning. It’s only waist to chest high and kinda weak…but surfable. We finally have a couple of banks at Bondi – which best suit a very small swell like today. Round 2 is currently running at the Quiksilver Pro, Snapper. It looks tiny and torturous. The waiting period has been […]

I wasn’t sure if it would be pouring with rain or deeply overcast this morning. Surprisingly…it was neither. Golden hues welcomed the day after a steamy night…felt just like Singapore. By 8am the cloud cover won the battle and is here to stay. Waves – nothing of significance to discuss. I saw weak waist high […]

Autumn…the best time of year I reckon. The water has retained it’s warmth, the light is gold, the crowds have subsided. It’s good. That booming weekend’s swell (that caught us off guard) has now gone. It was dropping a foot every hour. I reckon it will be flat by midday. So many sharks around at […]

Sydney really turned it on with an amazing sunrise to start the day. How good was it? Thousands had their phones out capturing the morning hues before returning to their daily rituals. Quite a rare morning. Coincidentally the surf has turned on. South swell and offshore winds. 4 foot. BINGO! Bondi was closing out (no […]

Pretty happy about this morning. T’was top notch. Good colours, water temps and even a little waist to chest high wave @ Bondage. Huge crowd down the beach enjoying the summer-like conditions before a southerly smothers Sydney with wind and clouds. Hit it! :: uge

Amazing how different today is. In 24 hours the sunshine has gone, the waves are now flat, the crowds have dissipated and we have kinda a gloomy day down the shoreline. Pack the boards away for today – it’s unsurfable. Save your time for later in the week when 4-6 footers will break on Friday. […]

If you get the opportunity go outside, do it. It’s a magic autumn day in Sydney. Even better if you can go outside AND hit the beach as there’s clean waves, warm water and a rad shorey at Bondi. It’s funny, spend 5 weeks in Hawaii (Land of the world’s best shore breaks) and a […]

I’m back from my 5 week sabbatical in Hawaii. It feels good to be back. I need my travels to refresh my eyes – otherwise I can sometimes switch to auto-pilot shooting the same beach for 16 years. (yep, now 16 years). It was great to see good waves at Bondi this morning as well […]

I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]

Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]

Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is. The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves. Bet you didn’t know: Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day […]

I’m lucky enough to travel to some pretty amazing places these days. I’ve seen a lot – but Bondi is still home. We may not have world class epic waves but there’s a nice balance between beach and working life when living in 2026. Today’s daily email highlights 12 reasons why I’m into Bondi so […]

This week has been awesome on the North Shore. The weather and winds have been behaving nicely. Here’s the highlights. Wanna come here? Sure thing. It’s good. We come every winter. It can get big though…real big…but you can (nearly) always find somewhere to surf. Yes it is crowded, very, and the people here can […]

For a long time I have wanted to swim out to Waimea Bay and shoot photographs. Today I got to tick that bucket list box. OK, it wasn’t 30 foot…it was 15 foot with a few sneaker sets…but it was still a pretty cool thing to do in life. Waimea Bay is the birth place […]

It’s been big and onshore here in Hawaii. Today is the first day in quite some time that the wind has gone back to it’s traditional trades. Very strange conditions for this time of year. Oahu still has plenty to do when the surf ain’t cranking…it’s an amazing island. Don’t forget it’s Valentines tomorrow…come visit […]

Aloha. I read the Hawaiian surf forecast for today. “Cross shore winds, 2-3 footers that will grow and sundown could be triple head high.” Oh…only triple head high. Shame the westerly winds are spoiling it cause it’s gonna get huge. Maui/Jaws is gonna pump (good winds for over there). What cracks me up is everyone […]

It’s  been a tough week on the North Shore. No really… The entire week was plagued with small conditions and onshore winds. Thankfully on the weekend that all changed! 6-8 foot and offshore. I’m out there (it’s still weekend here). Another island I am a big fan of is little old New Zealand. Hopefully make […]

We’ve got some annoying onshore winds on the North Shore that are wreaking havoc. These nemesis winds are here for a few days so the surf action has died down and you are looking at the outtakes from the recent good times. I’m sure the East Coast would be hosting something enjoyable to surf (offshore […]

Aloha. Sounds like Sydney has been pummeled by a large swell in my absence. Not very common for this time of year. Even sounded like it was nearly bigger than here in Hawaii. Pipe has been on most days and the Volcom Pipe Pro has been and gone…John John won it convincingly, combining tubes and […]

I’ve made my annual pilgrimage to the Mecca of surfing, Hawaii’s North Shore. I like it here. I hope you do too as the next few weeks of Aquabumps is going to be broadcasted from the rogue shores of this volcanic fiery island. Upon arrival the surf has been pumping, of course. Not much going […]

I can remember back in 2005 when a local Bondi Lifeguard rocked up to my gallery and bounced an idea off me. He wanted to create a TV series on Bondi based around the lifeguards. “Yeah…that may work…will people really wanna see what’s happening in Bondi?” I said to Benny. Well 9 fruitful years of […]

The day began with a thick sea fog smothering the beaches. Real humid morning. Plenty of moisture. Very typical of this time of year. Small waves. 1-2 footers at Bondi, 2-3 footers at Maroubra. A huge swell has arrived in Hawaii. I just got a swell alert email saying 42-50ft. Gotta love that place…I hope […]

This morning did a complete 180. At 6am you could hear the pitter-pattering of rain on our roof. I hit the snooze button a few times before rolling down to the beach. Upon arrival the clouds parted and it transformed into a nice day. Small waves as well, mainly the 2 foot variety. Bondi is […]

For only a few minutes we had strong, golden, contrasty light. It looked amazing. Then the black clouds came over and smothered the beach with darkness. It was like something out of a Armageddon movie. There are waves but it’s not fantastic. 2-3 footers slapping close to shore with a full morning tide. ::uge