So, you like surfing…the peace and quiet of being out the back waiting for a set wave…the wind in your hair and salt on the skin.
(insert scratching record needle sound)
Well…today is not for you. It was a crazy full house down there this morning. Loose boards, big crowds, strong rips and not enough supply. Don’t get me wrong, when it broke, there was fun to be had…but fighting for one…a wave on your own…without someone in front fading you…was rare.
Ah, summer is here. Well kinda. Close. Feels like it.
I spent two hours in the water this morning. 45 mins underwater. 45 mins shooting on the surface with a longer lens…then a 30 minute 2 wave surf. Coulda spent all day down there. Tomorrow is an even better beach day – shall I see you down there?
2 clever young blokes started a glass wear company from the Bondi Markets. Nick and Pete. Good blokes. Clever. In 3 years they’ve turned it into a empire of 23 stores, globally called Bailey Nelson. I was so damn impressed with them that we had to collaborate this year and create a line of Bailey Nelson x Aquabumps sunglasses. Check em.
Peace :: uge
More Italian/Dutch than Frenchie, but I take it as a compliment, haha!
Sorry! uge