We’re experiencing some nice long-period swells at the moment….kinda felt like being back in Indo. You know…sitting there, it’s dead flat, then all the sudden a 4 footer arrives out of the blue. Nice! Treats! The chilly offshore winds are grooming those puppies well. Bondi had a few fun ones. I like the left into […]

This morning was interesting. I arrived at Bronte Beach, early (6:30am). I shot some slow shutter stuff…took my time. Day dreamed. Waves looked very small. 1-2 foot. 2 guys out. Out of the blue a 3-4 footer arrived. CRUNCH! Impressive I thought. We’d it come from? I know a south ground swell is due today, […]

A wind swell has arrived…and you can surf it…but it is pretty average. I wouldn’t race down. Even with an offshore breeze it looks quite junkie. The weekend is going to be mostly sunny (dang!)…with tiny waves, best suited to beginners. Have you been to Bondi Tony’s Burger Joint yet? It’s new and on Glenayr […]

Really mild conditions in Sydney at the moment. The days aren’t that cold…the water is warm (20). Odd for this time of year. The waves are hibernating today…and tomorrow you should see a swell increase (wind swell only which is short lived). It is going to rain for sure… The One Wave crew are getting […]

If I could, I’d spend all day down there. It’s warmer down there, underneath the waves. No mobile phones, no inboxes…nice and quiet. Just hanging with the sting rays. Perfect! The water was really clear and the waves tiny. Swimming for an hour or so sets you up for the day. I feel great. Very […]

The mercury dropped out this morning to a chilly 8 degrees. Fresh! The chill kept most people tucked up in bed as the beach was quite empty, early. I saw some fun waves at Bondi, at best, head high. Right now (12:40pm) I look out the window and see cloudless blue skies boasting 14 degrees. […]

Some days are best left unphotographed. It’s pretty feral outside. I’ve got soggy shoes. The beach was deserted today (and very dark). Car park empty. Surf was empty. Sand was joggerless. Nothing. There are a few 3-4 foot waves peeling in. Very randomly. You might find something. I reckon you will be able to surf […]

How good was the double banger rainbows last night? Oh the romance… I only got a quick one on my phone but Robbie Norman scored this work of art above. You’ll find Robbie at @stillnothere The surf was a little disappointing this morning as I had high hopes of it cranking. It’s small. Like 1-2 […]

I take photos every day. That’s been my calling in life for some time now. Some days are more photogenic than others. Some days I’ve got the trigger finger on flat biccie – like Tony Montana in the final scenes of Scarface. Sometimes I labor over the shots…trying all kinds of fancy dance work to […]

Well it ain’t no Cloudbreak out there at Bondi…but there is sumpin’ to paddle into. 2-3 footers, best bank is in the middle. The North winds are up early and it looks like it’s fading quite fast. Another swell backing up on Friday (4ft range). Jane Lampe is a North Bondi local that gave up […]

Hey there, I’m back! Yes my dreamy floating junket has come to an end. Gotta say, ain’t to shabby back here. Upon my return I discovered 3-4 footers and sunny on Saturday. It was pumping! Today’s a bit grey but still 2-3 footers are out there. Looks to be getting bigger tonight. What’s the haps […]

After travelling 550 nautical miles at sea over the past 12 days…we surfed 15 different breaks and averaged 60 waves each, per day. It’s been amazing. Incredible. The islands never seem to fail me. We’ve scored uncrowded 3-6 foot waves and good weather for most days on this tour. Disclaimer – it’s a gamble though, […]

Technology is pretty crazy huh? Here I am, 100 miles from any mobile phone signal, 200 miles from the closest port with barely a human in sight. But hang on…I’ve got satellite internet access! How convenient. The waves pictured in today’s update are very remote and hard to get to, but they are also world […]

Hello. It’s me. Uge. I’ve wrestled my website back from Derek. We are still at sea and have found what we are looking for. Sempurna (Indonesian for perfection). Yes, it’s pumping. Proper. Not a drop out of place. 4-6 foot barrels on a clear, sunny day. Hard to believe that there was only a few […]

How do you tell a true surf story? In this pretty island chain called the Mentawais, one-and-half degrees off the equator, there is a daily play of cat and mouse. The old themes of deceit and gamesmanship, act themselves out among the fifteen boats, the resorts, the camp and the home stays that populate the […]

If there’s anything more excruciating than sitting through a friend’s digital slideshow post first-class surf vay-cay, it’s sitting through a day-by-day account of its symphonies. Does it boil your skin to hear of waves being swatted like a dead goat in a game of Afghan polo, all the while gin and tonics served on the […]

SCENE: A lone beachbreak mid-way along the Mentawai Island chain in Sumatra. The Indonesian sun blazes down on eight surfers, split between four peaks. The wind is desultory. Sets appear hither and yon, allowing anyone with even the most basic of games to easily put themselves inside the wave’s curve. Paradise? Yeah, it’s close. The […]