Chunx

So many places would be lighting up today…most of them are a minimum 3-4 hours drive away from here. Every time I book a day of meetings you can be assured 6 foot pumping south swell! Yes give me a tissue…

If you’re reading this you really should get outside and go for a drive – even if it’s to enjoy this deluxe Autumn day. The swell is clean and chunky. Bondi was predominately closing out. Bronte, Tama and the Bra are all missing the south swell. Hit it.

:: uge