Normally I like my islands filled with palm trees, a little right hander wrapping around one corner, ya know, in the pacific… Well I’ve arrived at Manhattan Island NYC just for something different. Ok I haven’t seen any organic matter yet or a wave…but it’s just as amazing. For years people have told me how […]

It’s not often I stray from the coast but today I am in the incredible metropolis of London. It’s summer here and the sun is out – what a great time to visit. I haven’t been back here in years…such a different pace to the Mentawai Islands I was in 10 days ago! The place […]

The waves have been great around here. Real good. Only small, but as you know Bondi can’t handle too much. The banks have been very generous with rights, lefts and multiple peaks. To match the good waves we’ve had huge crowds. Friday afternoon was one of the busiest I’ve seen on one peak. Mayhem! Today […]

Hey. Wasn’t it a nice lil’ surprise to see some decent waves down at Bondi this morning. Our south facing beach was squeezing every inch out of this southerly swell…every inch. I was expecting 1 footers but found the odd head high set. Bonus! It’s Friday…the fluoros are out in force and swell looks to […]

The hardest part of my morning is the time between peeling out of bed and putting on a wet wetsuit. From then on it’s all gravy. These cold mornings make you feel magnetised to your bed…but should you get up and get down the beach, you will find warm water, 2 footers and glorious morning […]

Yesterday arvo the wind blew more south and created a lil’ mess. Bondi was still junkie this morning (and head high). If you like surfing without the crowd, these mornings are built for you. It’s random and a little chilly…but something to do. I’m gonna wait for it to clean up a little. Our mate […]

Sorry about the late update…think my clock is still in the Indonesian Islands. These mornings are damn dark. At 7am the light is struggling to get over Ben Buckler. For your records, this Saturday is the shortest day of the year. I love the light at this time of year – so rich, so gold, […]

I’ve returned to Sydney after my lil’ Indonesian junket and wow, we’ve got some beefy swell in town. The swell is nearly 180 degrees which means its VERY SOUTH. I know of a few little reef nuggets that would be firing right now with these grooming west offshores. If you’re not in the water right […]

After nearly two weeks of back to back swells in the Mentawais it’s finally gone flat. Good timing really as we are heading home with sore shoulders and good memories. One of the best trips I’ve had up here with superb weather and waves 11 days out of 12. This afternoon we parked the boat […]

The Mentawais are a chain of seventy islands and islets off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia. The area is littered with world class waves which nearly all break on sharp coral reefs. There is more than 100 surf breaks in the area. I’ve been here 15 times and still seeing new setups (especially […]

It’s been pretty damn-amazing in Indonesia lately. The swells have been consistent and the winds variable. These ideal conditions spread the boats throughout the archipelago and it’s easy to be surfing on your own. The other day I surfed 7 hours in 1 day. Haven’t done that in an ages, but when’s she’s pumping you’ve […]

It can’t pump every day…after nearly a week up here the waves have turned off. A good time to let the reef cuts heal. Swell is coming though…and should hit later today. She’s gonna be a big one. But for now it’s messing around on the boat and DVDs. Here’s some odd bits and bobs […]

Its official, we’ve found paradise. Don’t ask me where exactly as we travel through the night waking up at a different surf break each day. Today we surfaced at a neat little empty left (no name) on the point of a coconut lined bay. It’s pristine – untouched by humans. The beaches have no evidence […]

We’ve arrived at the Mentawai islands and its pumping. Proper. In Indonesia May/June are when you start see swells from those great southern lows. We’ve been here… together…many times before so you all know how much I rate this place… but today was really quite exceptional. Even ended with a cracker sunset thanks to an […]