B A N A N A

We’ve escaped the cool waters of the Mid-North Coast and landed 3 hours north, at Banana Coast – or better known as Coffs Harbour. Never been here before and plenty of surf options with bays facing all directions. The swell is still NE and so is the wind so Northern corners are the go. The […]

See full post & more photographs

S U M M E R F R O S T

The best thing about a drive up the coast is that you basically keep driving until you find waves. There are just so many options along the East Coast. Mid-week is also a bonus (and out of Skool Hols) as most beaches are relatively deserted. Yep, the best time of year as its still summer. […]

See full post & more photographs

R O A D I E

Howdy…we’re on the road. The Road to the Pro that is…all 844 kilometres of coastal highways from Sydney to Snapper Rocks. I’ve never done this drive in one continuous trip. I’m excited about finding a few waves along the way that fall into the cracks and particularly uncrowded ones (Bondi does get a lil’ hectic). […]

See full post & more photographs

S A V A G E

That was one hell of a storm that blew over on the weekend. Brutal. Saturday night I thought I was going to be roofless. The swell was rogue for most of the weekend and you needed to seek protected corners to find a wave. Balmoral and the harbour even had waves. The swell is dropping […]

See full post & more photographs

B L O W U P

The swell has arrived but so has that pesty SE onshore wind. Sometimes onshore Bondi can be kinda fun, no crowds, little more push but I reckon too much blow today…wait ‘til she settles. Tomorrow is going to be REALLY windy (30 knots) and wet…Sunday the winds should kick around to the NE and provide […]

See full post & more photographs

B O W L S

There’s some NE swell on its way to Sydney. I was thinking it might have come up a bit more this morning than it did. Bondi was 2 foot and very wind affected with an early morning SE onshore. Ok, it was junk. Maybe in a few more hours she’ll improve? Pray. Kinda hot day […]

See full post & more photographs

T R A N S I T I O N

It poured around 6:00am today. That’s normally when I start rolling down the beach. Hard to believe that now seeing it’s just gone perfectly sunny. I mean seriously, take a look out the window – it’s a beach cracker (max 26). The waves were pretty lacklustre this morning. Something dribbling in the south end but […]

See full post & more photographs

P I P E L I K E

I can draw a lot of parallels between Banzai Pipeline and Bondi today: The water was a salubrious 24 degrees…very similar temperature to Hawaii. In fact I’d go as far as saying it’s the best temperature I’ve felt in the Bondi water for a long, long time. The crowd was huge…just like Pipeline @ 6am […]

See full post & more photographs

C O N F U S E D

Good morning. The weather can’t seem to make its mind up today. At sunrise it was all golden and warm…looking to be a good beach day. Then it rained on and off around 4 times in 1 hour. Now it seems we’re settling into a grey one – damp. Winds are NE and the surf […]

See full post & more photographs

C O L O U R

After a colourful start we’ve settled into a grey old rainy Sydney day. There are waves in the head high+ vicinity but there is nothing for them to break on. Sometimes I wish we had a small reef in the middle of the bay that peeled left and right…the sand banks are pretty straight today […]

See full post & more photographs

N E L S O N

For something a lil’ different I was loitering around Bronte Pool this morning. Nice down there at sunrise. Not many waves at Bronte as Bondi had all the action. The swell came up as expected, approximately waist to chest high. Looks very weak…so ride something with a high volume of foam. Beautiful day to match, […]

See full post & more photographs

Motherland

Ah yes, I am back in Bondi. Good to be home. Was getting sick of 10 footers (jokes). Bondi looked real spesh all lit up at sunrise. Nice hues streaming in through Benny Buckler. Waves weren’t too flash, a dribbly knee high wave. Fortunately there is a little spike in swell tomorrow and Friday. Hopefully […]

See full post & more photographs

Kaimana

The Hawaiian word/name ‘Kaimana’ translates into English as “The Power of the Ocean”…and it can also represent the English word ‘Diamond’. Both translations apply to the surf conditions lately. The North Pacific has lit up with a double banger swell over the past few days. Pipeline has been a mental 15 feet with 100+ crew […]

See full post & more photographs

Wet

It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, […]

See full post & more photographs

21 Degrees North

I have to say this hasn’t been my standard trip to Hawaii. The weather has been a little funky. Lots of rain and fickle swells with howling winds. Not like the previous few years. The surf is still special…regardless. Water hasn’t been so clear – hence the lack of underwater shots. Today we have wind […]

See full post & more photographs

S-p-a-m

Hawaiians love eating canned S*p]am (Spicy Ham). You can tell by the size of sales display at Foodland. In fact Hawaiians consume the most S*p]am per capita in the United States (if not the world). Bet you didn’t know that. There’s even a S*p]am cook book here…mmmmm. Now that I’ve informed you of that useless […]

See full post & more photographs

Blue Hawaii

There is another large swell heading for Hawaii today…probably the 4th big one I’ve seen in 3 weeks. There is no shortage… Today they kicked off the Volcom Pipe Pro in anticipation of that inbound swell. Currently its 6-8 foot, overcast and a bit wobbly – that should change. Watch it live Not all these […]

See full post & more photographs