Morning DeBrief

Outstanding morning. Plenty up early doing their morning rituals down the beach. There’s a little wave on down at Bondi. Got some strange banks at the moment that require a specific tide. Most waves feather out the back, fizzle out in the middle, before a slap on the beach. Just position yourself somewhere in the […]

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the lost swells

The weather has been real nice but how about some swell? Today’s the same as the past week, waistline chuggers best suited to surf craft over 9 foot. I have to ‘fess up, my pics make it look much better than it actually was down there. Best day this week to surf – Thursday. Have […]

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Mini

It’s still microscopically small and dead calm. The sun was out and warm, but the wind was icy and offshore. The crowds were non-existent and there’s a shallow, good bank in the south. Just nothing to break on it. Calm conditions will dominate over the weekend – but it will be cold. Don’t forget its […]

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Memo

Didn’t you get the memo? Today’s a beach day…100%. As I write this I see it has hit 28 degrees. Ok, there is a possibility of a thunderstorm later, but right now, oh boy, it’s a perfect day to get your towel out and go for an invigorating swim. The water is still cold. Surf […]

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Twenty-5

What a day aye? Sunny and 25. Just perfect. Little left chuggin’ into Bondi. Good for the big mals. Waist to sometimes shoulder high. Friday should have a little wave. Other than that – it’s going to be small for some time now…which normally comes hand in hand with good weather as a high pressure […]

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Lighthouse

The swell has backed right off but the Australian Surfing Festival is still running today up at Port Macquarie’s Lighthouse beach (Watonga Rocks). The short boards are now out there and they’re making the most of the trying conditions. Not many beaches along the East Coast would have a wave at all today. Lucky the […]

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Port

G’day from Port Macquarie where the Australian Surf Titles are currently under away. Did you know the Aussie titles have been running since 1964? Longest running surf event in Australia. The titles cover longboarding, shortboarding, Alaia, Single fin and now Stand Up Paddles (SUP). The contest is mobile and can show up at any one […]

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Wag

One of my most loyal readers, my mother, has been getting up me about bad grammar and spelling in my daily updates. She’s disgusted at the sight of a t!ypo@1 and wonders why she spent all that money educating me. Obviously I was heavily distracted at school. I spent most of the time hiding in […]

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Eco Beach

130 kilometres Southwest of Broome is Eco Beach, a unique laid back eco retreat basically in the middle of no where. Perfect for a time out. It was recently in the news for hosting the David Jones photo shoot with Miranda Kerr. Beautiful place, again, the water colours are just off the hook. The Kimberley […]

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Kimberley Colours

The colours found here in the Kimberley are jaw dropping. The water is a hue of blue I’ve not seen before, not even in Fiji or Tahiti. The water is clean, so clean that it’s where the best pearls in the world are farmed. Then there’s the dirt. Red stuff. Rich in minerals and manages […]

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Broome

I’ve arrived at the pearl farming town of Broome today. Some 2,200 kilometers north of Perth and completely the opposite side of Australia to Sydney. It’s summer here…yep…thawing out in the 32-degree heat whilst checking out the main beach, Cable Beach. Cable Beach was named in honour of the Java-to-Australia undersea telegraph cable, which connects […]

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B-Sides

By the time you read this update I will be on an early flight across the desert to the red dirt and warmer temperatures of Broome, WA. Last week was a good one for shooting pics, well before that big storm hit. Plenty of good light, calm conditions and sunrise colour. Here’s 7 shots that […]

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Gusty

The forecasted storm only just hit. (10:40am) It’s 35 knots of howling wind ripping Sydney apart. I look out the window and can see junk blowing down my street. The pram just blew over with my 16 month old son Jet in it. He’s ok, no need to call DOCs. This morning at sunrise it […]

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Now and Then

Take a look at the beach now, as the next 24 hours it is going to erupt. Today’s timid west winds will swing south overnight and blow, hard. Those flimsy knee to chest high sets of today will transform into triple head high tomorrow…yes…triple. Saturday will host the biggest waves of this storm swell. Some […]

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Golden Hour

I love the winter light. When the sun is low on the horizon it puts out a rich, warm hue that is pretty special. It’s a good time to go for a dip, swim out the back and watch the day kick off. Enough herbal rant. Down to more factual observations of the morning… There […]

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Squinters

Good morning. The left bowl down at South Bondi looked quite fun this morning. Plenty out as the sun crept over Benny Buckler. I’d say it’s the best it’s going to be all week long…see…tomorrow it’s going to be smaller and Thursday very very small, but Friday will be huge (triple head high) and seriously […]

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Silky

In terms of water conditions, this morning was perfect. Silky smooth surfaces with absolutely no wind. The only ingredient missing is swell. It’s microscopic. Today is the smallest day of the week and it will gradually build to a big day on Friday (sorry, but it will be windy also). Plenty of surf days in […]

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Flame Up

After a week of rogue waves, you can finally return to the water as the ocean has settled down. It’s head high at Bondi now, clean and looking quite good. Wow, what an excellent sunrise, one of Sydney’s finest. A perfect thin ceiling of cloud hovering above Ben Buckler, lit up from the bottom as […]

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Beefcakes

I wish there was more on offer when these giant south swells come to town. There is just nothing rideable around here when it’s like this. Today is the last of the big stuff. From here on the winds will be lighter and our little sand banks will be able to manage the swell. I […]

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The Big Boys

We have a giant rogue swell in town…it’s hitting the breakwalls at the back of the beaches. I’ve seen waves this morning up around 8-10 feet. I’ve also spent around 3 hours in the car driving around, stalking rideable swells, but really…it’s not on – too windy.  A couple of mates surfed a bombie out […]

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Bronte Bunker

Windy and chunky – that’s a good summation of what I saw down the beach today. You’ll need to surf nooks and crannies tucked away from the Southerly. Its kinda offshore right now, SW, but it will edge around to the South later today and pick up to 20 knots. Typical winter’s day. Rained 3 […]

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Empty

Wanna surf Bondi on your own amongst 3 footers, read no further and best paddle out now. It’s not incredible as the early morning high tide put plenty of wonk in the faces. But it is all yours. Couple of things to note about this week: – In general, there will be waves breaking all […]

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1st light

Not a bad week to be running around the beaches with a camera. Some decent moments worth capturing. This morning’s focus is on the sunrise, which splurged colour across our skies around 6:30am. There are waves as well, smaller than yesterday and still coming from a ESE direction. North winds all day, making it clean, […]

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Heavy Fog

No two mornings are the same. I guess that is what draws me back down there every day after so many years. Yesterday I couldn’t even get out of the car as the rain blanketed down. This morning a thick fog smothered Sydney, making it hard to see what’s going on out the back. One […]

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Bathe

I’ve been down the beach 3 times this morning to get the shots. Blanket rain over Sydney made those missions a little difficult. I could see semi-clean waves from the car park at Bondi. Perhaps shoulder high with the odd head high set. No one around. Wind looks to be coming from the North – […]

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Bondeye

There is swell but it’s horribly onshore. Bondi was a frothing mess at sunrise today. Pass. There is quite a bit more East in the swell today, but the nemesis SSE wind is flanking, roughening up anything that you’d want to ride. Tomorrow the winds will lighten and the swell increase. But Wednesday onwards we […]

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Bondi Babble

A new batch of south swell is slowing starting to trickle in…she’s a little junkie (short period) and winds are icy SW (right off the mountains down south). On dark tonight it should be over head high. Tomorrow bigger and Sunday the biggest. Strong southerly winds are forecasted for a few days, so you will […]

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Vicious

The claws of winter were digging deep this morning. I got down the beach in the dark and it was bitterly cold. My phone said it hit 2 degrees this morning (my phone seems to know everything). That wind was icy and cut through the layers. Good lil’ bank down at Bondi for surfing. The […]

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1dx

Hey there. Bondi loves these days. A wiff of dead south swell and we have a little peak on a couple of sand banks. It’s small and long period swell, translating to infrequent waves, but when they roll in, you may get one around shoulder high. Could take 15 – 20 minutes though, but it’s […]

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Squint

After a short 24 hour stopover in Torquay I’m back up in Sydney to greet the good weather and fun, small waves. Real nice morning, soaked with burnt orange rays and barely any wind. Huge crew out in the water before sunrise, apparently a lot of tourists dropping by for the day. Hungry pack with […]

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Torquay

I reckon Bondi would be pretty small today. When I saw a bit of swell heading towards Victoria I thought I’d come down and shoot a few shots of Bells and Winkipop, just outside of Torquay. Haven’t been here in 12 years. The forecasted swell arrived, well most of it, it’s only getting bigger as […]

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Calm

All quiet’n’calm down the beach this morning. A small wave limped into Bronte, super weak and not really worth it in my mind. Bondi had knee to waist high dribblers. Handful of loggers out cruising. Unfortunately for the weekend it’s going to remain tiny, ankle to knee high. The next swell is due Tuesday where […]

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Flimsyville

Hi. It’s another nice morning. Kinda freaky with warmer temps as the wind blows from the North, which is uncharacteristic of this time of year. The flimsy ENE swell is still here in town, but its weak and on the decline. I saw ‘waves’ at Bronte around waist high and Bondi has something dribbling in […]

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Wind swell

Feels kinda warm doesn’t it? (Max 20 today) Those northerly winds consistently bring warmer temps that’s for sure. Lap it up. Last night a storm hit, the wind blew and the car got a free wash. By sunrise it had blown away leaving shoulder high wind waves, best surfed over the hill at East facing […]

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Living Colour

A really nice morning without surf. Plenty of colour over The Buckler around 6:40am. As forecasted, the swell is tiny and gathering around your knee caps. Forget surfing. It’s also going to rain later today, so enjoy the winter sun right now. Waves will be bigger tomorrow from a new choppy ENE swell. I suspect […]

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Micro

These are the days that best favour Bondi. The swell is tiny and not many places would have anything breaking at all. Bondi, a swell magnet in south swell, this morning had fun waist to (a lil’ guys) chest high waves. Not many out and plenty of sunshine after 7am. 5 things you should know […]

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Highly Motivated People

Days like these are for the extremely motivated and over enthusiastic. You’d need to be in order to peel yourself out of bed, wax up and paddle out there. 2 keen individuals surfed South Bondi this morning. I can’t say they got epic waves as it’s junkie, again, and onshore with plenty of rain ‘n’ […]

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Ghost Town

The conditions are all wrong for us around here…there is plenty of swell, Bondi waves broke around head to head’n’half – but it’s a junkyard. The banks can’t handle the size. I didn’t see a single person surfing from North Bondi to Bronte. That’s sayin’ sumpin’. In fact I reckon I saw 2-3 humans all […]

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Rogue

Big is not always best…especially around here with the lack of reef breaks. The swell increase has arrived right on time, sets peaking around double head high, but it’s all over the shop. Bondi, of course, is not surfable. A few body surfers swam out the back, but I didn’t see them do much. It’s […]

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Wobble

We’ve got a fresh new supply of South swell in town. Waves are currently breaking above your heads, which is nice. Shame about the wonk…this new swell is wobbly as, needing time to sort itself out. Tomorrow will get even bigger…the biggest day in 2 weeks. I’d expect to see double head high waves tomorrow. […]

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