Waimea

Hey there. The trade winds are blowing down the throat of Pipeline barrels…the sun is out and the Volcom Pipe Pro is on LIVE right now. It was 12 foot plus at daybreak, but now it’s settling into the 8-12 foot range. That kinda swell only works in a few spots here in Hawaii… the most famed of those big wave spots is beautiful Waimea Bay. Waimea was packed on dark last night, 70 out with multicolored 10 foot Rhino chasers. Infrequent sets broke with 8 crew per wave (and you thought you got burnt bad at Bondi). The shoredump was a killer – getting in and out quite tricky. Big swells here are a celebration and everyone skips work to get a set out the back…or they’re on the beach watching in awe. It’s got a great vibe.

Let’s talk about something else, See this pic below of a lady with a big grin? That’s Stephanie. She’s Japanese and lives in a beach tent just up from the shack. I don’t think she has a permanent home. Stephanie sells drinks at Pipe to the thirsty onlookers, as there is only 1 real supermarket on the North Shore – the almighty Foodland. She does all right, real pushy saleswoman (I offered her a job in the gallery) – every time she looks at you she’s pushing her product, hard. I see her surf most days, well, kinda…she gets hammered most of the time and doesn’t make it out the back – but she wears a huge smile day in and day out. (That’s until the kids steal the drinks from under her nose as she’s watching Slater tune Pipe.) Nice simple life – and she’s super happy with no possessions, just plenty of Aloha and ocean time.

Have a good day, don’t forget to enter the Aquabumps comp to win 7 nights stay at Turtle Bay Resort (North Shore where I am now) ENTER

Adios:: uge

PS – the swell got so big last night it went under the house!