Cover

There will be no mention of the weather today – as that’s all I’ve heard all morning. Let’s just say it’s not ideal for surfing or photography. Waves are 2-3 foot with barely anyone out. Ok, it’s extremely messy as well – but she’ll settle down and you’ll find a few later. Entries have closed […]

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24 hours

It’s hard to believe that today and yesterday live in the same week. Working out what to wear today was confusing, jumper or boardies – how can it possibly go from steamy summer’s bake to Grey, wintery chills in 24 hours? The south wind is up and there is barely anything to surf. Best wait […]

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basking in the sun

3 good reasons to hit the beach right now. 1) It is gonna be a fat 32 degrees 2) It is gonna rain for the rest of the week 3) It is just perfect down there right now, ok, some waves would be nice, but you can’t have everything Waves will come Wed/Thursday. Bye for […]

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Yep, Naa

Yeah – naaa. Naa the waves aren’t so good this morning. We’ve got confused 2 footers breaking at Bondi. Looks like the swell origin has kinked more to the east, not well suited to Bondi. Yeeah, it’s a damn fine day outside. I mean seriously, can’t get much better. Hit the beach FOR SURE. Oh […]

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Sneaky swell

Hola. On Monday the forecast looked rather bleak – lots of zeros on the buoy charts. However the weather was looking impressive and I thought you’d be lying around Lake Bondi sunning it up. I’ve been surprised to find waves most days this week, albeit small ones. Today the SE swell has spiked up overnight […]

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Fine

Oh boy, from now until the weekend the weather is gonna be just perfect here in Sydney. I’m talking mid to late twenties, clear skies and gentle northerlies. A nice introduction into summer. It’s a bonus that there is also a little, flimsy, weak wave floppin’ into Bondi as well. I saw waves around shoulder […]

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Shortlived

The swell came up yesterday with all that wind but it blew away as fast as it came. Last night I surfed waves around head high…this morning it was on the decline (bit messy too). You will still be able to surf as there are waves 1-3 foot –  it’s just not amazing. Nice morning […]

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Let’s get tropical

Typical of Sydney, we have one cracking hot day backed up by a smotherly winter’s day. As I write this the mercury is only hitting 14 degrees. A far cry from yesterday’s summer vacation. The good news is that there are many fine days this week and towards Friday she’s gonna hit 29 degrees. Unfortunately […]

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Light on

There wasn’t not much for me to work with down the beach this morning at Bondi. When I got there the sunrise glow was finishing and the clouds thickening. The waves are a flimsy wind chop -1 /2 foot and best suited to the learner variety. It was kinda dark too, but here are a […]

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Funky Cold Medina

Heeeyaa. The surf was rubbish this morning. Robin reckons there is a left in the corner, but I couldn’t see it with all the junk and chop. Slight onshore conditions this morning which will kick around to ENE today, may get cleaner, but there is no guts to this swell – weak as…lots of flappin’. […]

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Fisheye

A lot of surf photographers use fisheye lenses when shooting in the drink as it can make barrels look wide and you can get up nice’n’snug with your subject (hopefully someone riding high in the bat cave or a nice empty cavity). I like shooting fisheye as I feel a part of the action. Standing […]

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Solar

Today is not a great surf day. Today’s a good day to do everything else. Last night we had waves – but now they’ve gone. Today the sun is baking, the westerly winds are howling and skies are 100% clear. Tomorrow is a new day with a new dead south swell. We like those at […]

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Monday’s ramble

Considering the charts were showing a 1 foot prediction this morning it’s actually OK down there. I mean you can catch waves, kinda go along the face and do something (once). It’s weak, pretty wonky and overcast – but there ain’t many humans out. Max 20 degrees today, offshore all day and should get cleaner […]

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Groundhog

Each morning this week has been very similar. It all started out very grey and gloomy but now transformed in a glorious day outside – sunshine + 3 footers is the best way to sum it up. A good one to get down the beach (for now). The BOM says thunderstorms and rain forecasted – […]

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Contradictions

Looking at the swell charts earlier this week I wouldn’t have thought it would be this good today. The swell was meant to decline rapidly from yesterday, leaving us with 2 footers this morning. But nah, it’s 4-5 foot, clean and some fun empty ones pumping into our bay. The winds are a perfect W/NW […]

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4 to 5

Good morning…it’s neatened up a little out there and the size has held – 4-5 foot sets, not such a bad idea to slip out and score a few for yourself. The winds are fortunately a westerly and only 5 knots. Cloudy cold day, 11. Water still chilly 18. Corona Some good news, if you […]

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The Lone Wolf

When I travel and tell people I live and surf in Bondi they have this look of pain on their face, usually followed by “bit crowded there init?”. This makes me think back to days like these. It’s 4-5 foot, kinda clean, overcast and 1 dude out. Ok, it’s not barrelling and far from perfect […]

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The Emerald Coast

Just got off the plane and went for a dawdle down the beach. To put it plainly – it’s an AMAZING DAY outside. The water is a deep emerald colour, it’s offshore (and quite strong), there is a fun little mal riding 2 footer crumbling with the schoolies pack frothin – what more could you […]

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Last Day

Our little junket in the Mentawai’s has come to a close as we set sail for mainland Indonesia. Plenty of waves in the first half of the trip, bit light on in the second – except today where it came up to 4-5 foot on a hollow left. The winds up here have been a […]

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Laydaze

The swell is down and the wind is up from the south – a good combo to watch a whole season of Entourage and rest up – not much else to do on a boat at sea with tiny wind chop. It can’t be pumping everyday up here, we’re all surfed out anyway after 7 […]

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The Indian blue

There’s not much between the Mentawai Islands and the bottom of this planet – just a massive expanse of Indian Ocean between Australia and Africa. This absence of land mass keeps the surf rich waters around these islands crispy blue clear…perfect for a day’s swimming around with your camera. The surf has been good – […]

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Windows

Well it’s been quite a different trip to the Mentawais this year. There has been plenty of smoking waves to be had…I should mention…in amongst the rain and howling southerly gusts. In 1 day the weather has been changing so much –  you just don’t know what to expect. Some breaks have been on just […]

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Tsunami

Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought […]

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AWOL

Uge has gone AWOL. We haven’t heard from him this morning. I guess that’s what happens when you’re surfing a million miles from civilisation and living on a boat. We’re so connected these days, I bet it’s nice for the boys to be unplugged for a while… So, today’s report comes from Bondi HQ. It’s […]

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Punters

We have moved to a part of the Islands called Lances. The swell is still tiny but there are some fun waves around exposed breaks nearby. We still haven’t seen the real perfection that these islands are famous for. Lances area was badly hit by the Tsunami last year – the Bintang village has now […]

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Ombak Kecil

So here we are…drifting between islands in search of good waves following swell charts and good weather. It’s been small so far, 3 to 4 foot – with some really small low tide sessions. Windy too which is not normal for this equatorial surf haven. Early this morning we had some sheet glass but just […]

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Mentawais

Selmat Pagi. It’s been a long time since I’ve traveled. Around 8 months to be exact (cause we had a baby). The next two weeks the photos are going to be via satellite as we’re in the Mentawais Islands, Indonesia on charter boat Tengirri. It’s paradise here…the waves are 3 foot today, getting bigger in […]

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Shoreline meanderings

Hurro. What a nice day (again). Yesterday’s healthy 3 foot increase in swell is still here and there’s some really fun waves in town. Bondi was 2-3 foot at sunrise, closing out a little, but multiple peaks doing their thing (it’s nice to have more options along the beach instead of the 1 peak we’ve […]

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Fizzer

I’ve written the start to this daily email 3 times and don’t really have anything amazing to say. It’s well, um, 1-2 foot and junkie out there. The good news is that at 6:20am there wasn’t a soul out on the main peak. I’m torkin’ not one human – not even a beginner drifting down […]

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Fade

This is a public announcement…when surfing, can we limit 1 surfer for each wave. I know this might come as a shock to many that surfed Bondi this morning. But yes, not every wave is a team wave. I don’t think I’ve seen so many drop-ins in such a short period of time ANY where […]

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Pumping

I rolled down this hill this morning and was greeted by Geurbox pulling into a 4 foot Bondi barrel. That’s quite rare for Bondi. It’s cleaned up, winds offshore, sun is out, the swell is still here – oh boy, it’s a really good surf day. Now remember we’re heading into a summer weather pattern, […]

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vicious

There is a big south swell in town. It’s not lining up so great so Bondi to Bronte weren’t really surfable this morning. No one out. The protected south corner of Maroubra was where everyone gravitated too, but that was a bit wonky or really small as you got deeper into the corner. So you […]

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The summer bird

I rolled down the beach this morning hoping that the inbound south swell had maybe come early. It hadn’t, the rain has set in and I shot 3 very ugly photographs from the front seat of my car. It’s only 1-1.5 foot. I’m not even gonna show you those 3 photos – they’re that bad. […]

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Retro

It’s not looking very inviting out there. Rain, onshores and dribble – chilly too. Today is all about transition from the sunny northerlies to the south storm (which is drawing in a big swell for the weekend). Heads down, work hard and free up some time for tomorrow arvo and weekend when the surf picks […]

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e a s t

We’ve got a full blown east swell which is neglecting Bondi at the moment. You will have to go for a drive to an east facing beach like Maroubra if you want to get wet – even when you get there you’ll only find 2 foot weak waves, but at least it’s sumpin’. Nice weather […]

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New Faces

A superb morning and so many new faces out. Where have you been all winter? Sun was shining, the northerlies blowing, the bootie camps were choccas, the car park full and the waves….the waves were just not happening. There was a little piece of wind chop for the very motivated individuals, but I’d pass. In […]

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Warmth

Can you feel it? Spring…yep, it’s so much warmer this morning at sunrise. Gotta love this time of year…shed those woolies and go for a swim – deluxe 24 today. Looks like a the world surfing tour is gonna have a big week in New York as the top 34 ready for the start of […]

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Jack

We all know the swell has jacked up this morning – unfortunately so has the wind. Choppy Bondi has 3-4 foot waves this morning. Need that wind to kick around to the north to take the junk out of it. (which should happen tomorrow). High tide is 11:15am, low tide is 5:30pm. Only a wintery […]

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Shifty

Well it wasn’t the best conditions I’ve seen out there. Maybe ‘cause we’ve been spoilt. The left had a wave, yes, that left. It was weak and floppy – say 2 foot. Pretty junkie. The right wasn’t really working in my eyes. Plenty of hopefuls out early. The swell should get bigger today as a […]

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R i n s e

Howdy. Conditions were o-kaaay this morning. A huge wolf pack feasted on 1-2 footers. It was a little messy and weak – but as Bondi always is….it was surfable. Wave of the day rolled through at 7:34am – it was very impressive. It hit the bank just right, stood up and threw some lip. I […]

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