Tasty

Today is one of those days that’s going to be hard to concentrate on work. Looking at the walls of your cubicle, fiddling with your pen – do another lap of the office floor with that blank piece of paper… in the back of your head you know it’s clear skies outside, the sun is […]

See full post & more photographs

shades of grey

Such a dark morning was kinda hard peeling yourself out of bed (let alone shoot any decent pics). When you got down to Bondi at 7am it was much smaller and weaker than yesterday. Guess this is because the swell direction has swung to East and better suiting joints like Maroubra. It is still more […]

See full post & more photographs

3 Peaks

3 distinct peaks were working at Bondi this morning. Overnight it had dropped in size (now 2-3 foot), but its cleaner and lining quite nicely. Large pack of hungry wolves up for the early though, I’d say be patient, wait until everyone wonders off to work and yee shall score. Tomorrow should be very similar […]

See full post & more photographs

happy dayz

Happy days down at Bondi this morning. I’d say there would be a few people late for work. The winds are perfectly offshore (W) and the swell has settled. 3-4 footers are on offer and the sunshine has decided to join the party. Nice little section on the left in the middle of Bondi. Good […]

See full post & more photographs

duotone

4-5 footers fumbling into Bondi this morning around 7am. Fortunately that wintery southerly howl has subsided as well, allowing the waves to line up a bit better. Only 4 guys out…there is definitely some decent waves to be had. I would probably hunt north side as there is more options and probably cleaner (e.g. Manly). […]

See full post & more photographs

meaty

Some meaty chunks rocking around Sydney at the moment. One of the biggest swells of 2008. Shame that the 8 foot sets at Bondi are flanked by a 20-30 knot southerly – making it a mess of things. Bondi to Maroubra has limited options, you’ll need decent protection from the southerly (e.g. Bronte or South […]

See full post & more photographs

maldivian clarity

Still a small up here in the Maldives…we’re finding the odd 3 footer. Water is sensational. Bondi looked good yesterday morning, but since then it would be getting smaller. Pretty micro until the end of the week. Random Maldives Facts: The Maldives lie 400 nautical miles south of the south western tip of Sri Lanka. […]

See full post & more photographs

atoll origins

Sounds like Bondi is pretty flat today (1ft max), just like over here in the Maldives. Looks small in Sydney until Saturday where are very large south swell is brewing. With all this flatness, I thought I’d look into how the Maldives were formed. There are conflicting theories on how these atolls came about, but […]

See full post & more photographs

uninhabited perfection

Often you see paradise pictures on postcards, coasters, in mags and wonder – where the hell is that? Chances are it’s from the beautiful Maldives. Over 1,200 islands litter this archipelago and they are consistently picturesque with clean sand, palm trees and dreamy blue water. We’ve headed out of the main area (where there are […]

See full post & more photographs

1 guy out

This week starts off pretty lame in comparison to last week’s gold. I only saw 1 guy paddling out at Bondi earlier today – so that says it all. 1-2 foot of dribbly bits today as that forecasted small ENE swell didn’t really eventuate. Fortunately mid this week you’ll find good waves (3-4 foot) from […]

See full post & more photographs

burning light

Great beginners waves today, or if you like surfing boards that are fat or very long – it’s your day. Crowds are minimal and the burning light was spectacular this morning. Crisp chilly mornings, but a swim still not out of the question. Currently there are waves between 1-2 foot in the southern corner of […]

See full post & more photographs

shows over

Well what a fantastic couple of days surfing. Unfortunately the grunt from the recent swell has dissipated overnight and we’re left with only 2 foot of weakness. I didn’t really see anything worth rushing out the door for this morning in comparison to Tuesday and Wednesday of this week. The swell charts show a rapid […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, 29 May 2008

~ shows overWell what a fantastic couple of days surfing. Unfortunately the grunt from the recent swell has dissipated overnight and we’re left with only 2 foot of weakness. I didn’t really see anything worth rushing out the door for this morning in comparison to Tuesday and Wednesday of this week. The swell charts show […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, 28 May 2008

double Probably half the size’ n ‘ half as good with double the crowds early this morning. But half of yesterday’s gold is still pretty good. The direction of the swell has shifted, neglecting the big bay of Bondi and moving more towards east exposed waves. You’d find waves around head high this morning, glassy […]

See full post & more photographs

smooookin’

Woowee. Damn smoking morning. You wouldn’t have to look too hard in Sydney to find a decent wave at the moment. It seems so many breaks are crankin’ with this consistent SE swell and fortunate offshore wind (NW). Bondi looked a little straight due to the tad of east direction in the swell. The 7:30am […]

See full post & more photographs

winter denial

Salubrious weather at the moment (big word for Monday I know). Its winter, but we’re pretending its midsummer – especially up the North Coast of NSW where the water is warmer and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. The waves could be better, swell seems to be hitting Sydney cleaner than up here…. we’ve […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, 23 May 2008

Swell has dropped off quite a bit from yesterday…there is still rideable waves down at Bondi this morning. Sets are up around 3 foot, consistent, but they’re hitting a shallow bank in the south…jacking up…and fading quite quickly. Yesterday’s onshore winds have subsided back to 5 knots (SE)…cloudy morning that should fine up hitting a […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, 22 May 2008

grainLooks like I returned just in time from WA to meet the onshore southerlies. After 3 days of joy (so I’ve heard), we’ve got 4-5 foot waves, from the south, BUT onshore and very messy. barely anyone out. My weather charts say it will swing offshore tomorrow (SW) – so best wait until then. Smaller […]

See full post & more photographs

Trigg Beach

Today’s Aquabumps comes from the other side of this big island, Trigg Point, Perth – Western Australia. Trigg beach is famous for being one of the most busiest surf breaks in the world. The beach is massively long, and flat, and the banks are usually dead straight to match – but the little corner pocket […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, 20 May 2008

TriggToday’s Aquabumps comes from the other side of this big island, Trigg Point, Perth – Western Australia. Trigg beach is famous for being one of the most busiest surf breaks in the world. The beach is massively long, and flat, and the banks are usually dead straight to match – but the little corner pocket […]

See full post & more photographs

mentawai bliss ::

Apa Kabar from the beautiful Mentawai Islands of Indonesia. The smoking waves continue…we haven’t had an off day yet…arms & back so sore we’re having trouble paddling. So, this morning when we found a perfect empty right hander at a casual 3 foot – we were relieved. This little right is so perfect, it’s like […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, 16 May 2008

Pancakes. Nada. Zip. Flat as…and a great morning to go for a swim. No swell until early next week. Here are some things to distract you from being productive at work today: World Tour Stop No.3 : Billabong Pro Tahiti finals are on today, a champion will be crowned in the next hour [watch it […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, 15 May 2008

*fogIf you fight your way through the thick early morning fog you’ll find waves breaking around your knee caps. Super clean surfaces as there is not a breath of wind (hence the fog). As mentioned yesterday there are no waves until early next week, so a good time to check out the Billabong Pro at […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, 14 May 2008

We’re only left with remnants of the recent southerly swell – 1-2 foot max. It looks weak and floppy, suitable for large wave sliding equipment such as your 10 foot (air craft carrier) mal. Exquisite morning. Super clean air, silky smooth water surfaces and perfectly sunny skies as the mercury hunts for that 20 degree […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, 13 May 2008

fickleReally early this morning there was promise of a small swell pulse. 6am, I saw sets at mid to south Bondi tipping the 3 foot mark and of decent quality. But for some reason within 1hr it switched to 1-2 foot of weakness 8am to 9am. Perhaps approaching low tide (9:30am) sucked all the goodness […]

See full post & more photographs

bondi fog ::

If you fight your way through the thick early morning fog you’ll find waves breaking around your knee caps. Super clean surfaces as there is not a breath of wind (hence the fog). As mentioned yesterday there are no waves until early next week, so a good time to check out the Billabong Pro at […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, 12 May 2008

This time of year is the best. Bondi quietens down…no hooligans leaping from car bonet to car bonet in the soccer jerseys, you can actually find a park within 400 metres of your destination & the peaks at Bondi only have a handful of keen winter frothers sharing waves…ah yes, those winter south swells have […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, 9 May 2008

Nice little surprise to return from the islands and Bondi is looking the goods this morning. Like the new bank setup and low tide pumped out a few hollow bits. Massive crowd at sunrise this morning enjoying the 3-4 foot, clean conditions. Doesn’t look anywhere near as good this afternoon. What glorious weather – perfectly […]

See full post & more photographs

Crisp morning light

We’re only left with remnants of the recent southerly swell – 1-2 foot max. It looks weak and floppy, suitable for large wave sliding equipment such as your 10 foot (air craft carrier) mal. Exquisite morning. Super clean air, silky smooth water surfaces and perfectly sunny skies as the mercury hunts for that 20 degree […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, 7 May 2008

So… after 420 hrs of surfing amongst 3 solid ground swells in 12 days, 7 blokes (with 7 crook backs) travelled 428 nautical miles on the boat. Over the tour: 440 cans of Bintang beer were drank, 5 massages, 24 packets of Tim Tams, 2.3 litres of sunscreen used, 4 bottles of bourbon, 4 broken […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, 6 May 2008

Lay-dayThe Mentawai Islands do not get flat often, but today was a micro surf day…about the only thing to do on the boat is jump off it. The deep water here is so blue it is just ridiculous. 30 metres of clear blue vis. So blue it looks fake. Looks like a swell is due […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, 5 May 2008

mentawai gold The waves have been as good as waves get. For eight days straight we’ve had perfect sunshine, nothing under 4 foot and minimal crowds. You know when the surf is good up here – as the boat staff surf every day. The forecast is for flatness for 2 days until another swell arrives […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday, 2 May 2008

Apa Kabar from the beautiful Mentawai Islands of Indonesia. The smoking waves continue…we haven’t had an off day yet…arms & back so sore we’re having trouble paddling. So, this morning when we found a perfect empty right hander at a casual 3 foot – we were relieved. This little right is so perfect, it’s like […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, 1 May 2008

Earthquake IslandThis morning we motored south to an area that I did not know existed in the island chain. We came across a small island, the size of the Sydney Cricket Grounds…pristine calm beach on one side, crankin’ 4-5 foot barrelling left off the other (and a little hut in the middle). Mystery island…population 3. […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, 30 April 2008

Jungle rightsAfter 3 days of surfing a left, we cruised south to find our own perfect 4 foot right hander hugging the edge of a jungle riddled point. Not a boat in sight. 30 minutes after the 1st wave a local villager paddled out in his dugout canoe, caught 2 waves (don’t think he sees […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

men-tah-whyIt’s just been silly up here in the Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). 3 days of non-stop epic waves. Not massive (4-6 foot), just smokin’…these islands were only discovered as a surf destination in early 90’s, predominantly by an Aussie – Martin Daly, who was a salvage diver – distracted by the local world class waves. It’s […]

See full post & more photographs

Monday, April 28, 2008

Indonesia arguably has some of the best surf in the word. More specifically, the Mentawai Islands has the highest concentration of world-class breaks within a 100 mile radius. The Mentawai islands are located 150 kilometres south of Padang, Sumatra, well in the middle of no where. Mentawai Islands are exposed to the extreme swells that […]

See full post & more photographs

Thursday, 24 April 2008

Finally the persistent rain has stopped and we can go outdoors…the winds have backed off a little and a new east swell is showing some promise. Bondi remains severely junkie and unsettled – but surfable if you haven’t been out in a while. Very few waves were holding up at all. Tomorrow should be a […]

See full post & more photographs

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

There are waves this morning as we’ve got a new east swell and relatively clean conditions (well compared to recent dayz). I’ve been down the beach a few times trying to get some shots, but every time it pours (is this rain going to stop?). Bondi had a little (junkie) wave still shaken up from […]

See full post & more photographs

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

cranky It’s been pretty onshore and ugly for 9 days now…but I have to say today is probably the ugliest. Yikes. Totally onshore, with 15 knots of sou-easterly and only touching 3 feet. The odd optimistic lone wolf is out not doing much. BUT there is light at the end of this dark tunnel. Friday […]

See full post & more photographs