What a surprise to find a pumping wave down at Bondi this morning around 7:30am. The prediction was for tiny, weak and barely surfable waves.
The goods will be short-lived – if not all over by now – as the South Easterly onshores prepare to blow 18 knots. Good while it lasted. Even inspired me out there. Sets around 3 foot earlier. Average 2 foot. Nice little pocket in the middle.
The forecast is for this swell to drop even more – so pack the boards away for a few days – as we’re looking at 4 days of 1 footers with northerly winds. Maybe time to do something else this weekend like hitting dem mountains for a ski.
The Mentawais is having another good season. Today’s pictures are fresh off MV Tengirri (shot by Philthy Kiem) who was anchored at the well know break HTs amongst a handful of big name pros. Hts is the best tube up there. The perfect olive shaped barrel thunders along the edge of a razor sharp reef. It’s so powerful – it’s a freak – especially as the swell has to wrap 180 degrees to get into this corner of the island. Shooting in the water there is hard work when its above 8 feet.
If you are lucky enough to make it out of a 8 foot cave, especially from the office (the top peak), fang past the next section that stands tall – then you’ve got to negotiate this dry patch of reef know as the “surgeons table”. Gets me every time. Lost more bark there than anywhere. Have a great weekend ::uge
