With all this talk of the approaching south swell, it was a little disappointing to watch Bondi closeout all morning. Plenty of 3-4 footers, but no shape. Take off, optimistically bottom turn into a head full of white water.
Somewhere, not sure where, would be putting on a good wave this morning. It would have to be a south facing beach with a protected southern corner. Maybe a spot of reef running into a sandy beachie, sunshine and 30 degrees would be nice, esky full of cold ones for when the arms can’t paddle anymore, blue warm water at a cooking 23 degrees, and a nice little rip suckin’ you back to the line up. Oh that would be nice.
The swell will increase this afternoon – add a couple of feet. But the wind is going BLOW 30 knots. Luckily it’s still offshore (W/SW). But you’ll feel the snow in the mountains once those hoofs hit the sand. Tomorrow is a surfing day. It’s going to hit 6-8 footer.
If you wanted to escape the claws of this cold winter, head to Indonesia. They’re have a cracker of a season in the Ments. Few spots on Tengirri still uip for grabs. Anthony@tengirri.com
these reports are incriminating!!! Partial blindness mixed with surfers ear is my excuse (albeit poor)…