Well – what a surprise to see you this morning. Didn’t think you were gonna come. The past few weeks you’ve dodged us…but you rocked up this morning, bigger than expected. You broke around 3 foot on sets at early morning Bondi. Shame you had nothing to break on – so you mostly closed out. […]

Late.Yeah I know – late one. But the morning was pretty damn grey’n’ugly – now it’s perfectly clear and sunny. If you were doing the bay swim this morning you would have company from 12 hypoactive dolphins. Haven’t seen that in a while. Small clean waves on offer around the 2 foot bracket – ok, […]

Junk.Bit of a junkyard this morning with strong SE easterlies making mush of chest high waves. Barely anyone out…and with this overcast weather it’s not all that inviting. This wind will howl 30 knots today before swinging around to the NE tonight. You might get a mini wave tomorrow morning (2 foot+). Max 25 degrees […]

Calmness.Looking out the gallery windows I can see blanketing sunshine. Cleared up a lot from this morning’s greyness. It’s still. Dead calm. And if there was a 4 metre swell hittin’ town it would be pumping. But it’s knee high to a grasshopper. And unsurfable. With a predicted sticky 28 degrees, cut the working day […]

beachFaces. Guess what? She’s flat again. Yup pancakes. So I am not going to bore you with 5 flat Bondi pics. Instead I’ve opted to shoot some of the familiar faces loitering around the joint. Perfect morning. Warm. Max 29 degrees today. Waves are dribblin’ knee choppers from the ENE with NNE winds all day. […]

swimmercam special edition. Ahhh yes. What to do when there isn’t a wave in sight… Skate the bowl?… Reorder the bookshelf into colour segments. How about a swimmercam special? In my last audience survey majority voted that swimmercam was as great viewing importance to the 76% male readership. So here you have it, today’s morning […]

Pass. Bigger waves in my bath tub this morning. Pass the sauce. Go swimming. Water is warm and it’s cookin’ in the jungle… Size ain’t everything. So they say…. But tomorrow night at the Oakley/ASL Big Wave awards its all about SIZE. Surfers of Australia and NZ have been baited with $30k to ride the […]

1-800 SHRINKTALK.Time to hop back on the couch and talk to the shrink… We’re in for a week of flatness. I’m talking 1 foot madness for at least 5 days. Today had waist high dribbles, but she requires diet pills as the 9:30am high tide starts to pork it up. Twenty7 degrees of joy today […]

threesome.3 days of consistent east swell. How lucky we’ve been. I’ve heard stories from the north side of real quality waves. East facing beaches have had up to 5 footers this week. It’s been fun while it lasted. Really. Especially with the salubrious warm water and sunshine. But today’s the last day of swell. It’s […]

My mother has flown into town for a surprise visit. The hot rod won’t start – will work from home today. I woke up and thought it was Sunday. I quit. Bird flu. My mates thought it would be funny to tie me to a pole in the cross in my undies. I quit. All […]

late.Yeah yeah I know. A late report. But have you had a look out the window. Who wants to be sitting behind a computer when it’s perfectly sunny and solid clean 4 foot? Normally I get accused of making the surf look much better than it really is. But today’s the other way around. Not […]

bump.Lots of fat bump in the chunk today. Yesterday’s onshore winds brought 4-5 footers this morning early, but the ocean is still very unsettled. As the day progresses conditions will improve as the 10 knots of ESE will fade to 4 knots. Low tide 12:30, High tide 18:15. Warm water 21 degrees, max 23 degrees […]

Back. Good ole 2 foot onshore Bondi. I’m back in the land of reality and the boards are deeply wedged into their covers…It’s a non-event this morning with barely a decent wave in sight (all onshore bumps). Sun is out but I’m told that will come to an end when the weather Gods prepare for […]

Menda.This morning I sat in a lil’ beach side warung waiting for the tide to come in. Next to me was a guy called Ketut (pretty popular name over here – meet 12 a day – means the forth child). Turns out it’s the legendary Ketut Menda, Bali’s former top surfer. Ketut aged 42 now […]

Tubes.Nothing beats a good tube. It’ll make your day. Especially whilst surfing in your boardies with 15 of your closest mates. When you reach a point that you can’t paddle any more (spaghetti arms) you’ll do the dash across 100 degree black volcanic sand for a massage/jaffle/sprite – all for under 5 bucks. Think it […]

pagi. A friend up here reckons you don’t have to do a driving test in Bali. You just rock up to the station in the chumped wagon and pay 20 bones. Gotta say the Indonesians drive pretty damn well for no regulation. But hey, you don’t really get to drive faster than 20 clicks. balibumps.Finally […]

Hola. Sorry about the lack of daily reports. Yep, still in Bali and at this time of year the surf is a bit fickle. You’ve gotta surf the east coast (mainly rights yeha!) but most breaks are hundreds of metres offshore making it hard to get photos – swimming with a camera ain’t that easy […]